Senhamon Cave is a favourite spot for divers and underwater photographers

When soggy summer days and crowded subways have you wishing you were a castaway on an uncharted desert isle, recharge on rustic Rota. Georgia Jacobs looks at another island in the Northern Marianas.

"Send me your tired and weary metropolitan masses," Rota seems to say. From the moment your hopper sets down on this idyllic Pacific isle, cool breezes, blooming bougainvilleas and warm sun begin to banish the urban blues. Stoplights are non-existent, friendly hellos abundant and bumping into the mayor and his children at the bird sanctuary not uncommon. The only time you' feel like a sardine is when you're snorkeling with schools of candy-colored fish in Rota's translucent waters. With untouched natural beauty, world-class dive sights and an 18-hole golf course, Rota keeps the active busy. But the real charm of this tiny tropical paradise is its relaxed, remote-island atmosphere, a quiet cousin to bustling Saipan and gaming Tinian. And despite its faraway feel, Rota is close enough for a long weekend retreat. It's three and a half hours by plane to Guam or Saipan followed by a 25-minute hopper ride.

Rota's roots
Part of the US Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas (CNMI), Rota, or Luta, was first settled by the Chamorros around 3000 BC and shares a history similar to its neighbors. However, the surrounding reef and lack of a good harbor spared this isolated island from heavy bombing during WWII, preserving the jungle, reef and ancient historical sites. To this day, Rota's government sees the island's natural beauty as its primary resource and embraces a philosophy of ecotourism. You won't find noisy jet skis or speedboats here. Even the arrival of the Rota Resort and Country Club and its international golf course tastefully blend with the rainforests.

Beautiful beaches
Averaging 29C (84F) year-round, 82 percent humidity, Rota is great for outdoors activities. Sandy white beaches lapped by turquoise lagoons full of thriving marine life and dotted with coconut palms are found all over the island. Teteto Beach is the main tourist beach, wide enough for sunbathing, deep enough for swimming, and full of tropical fish for snorkeling right off shore. It also has restroom facilities and a snack bar. The best beach to view Rota's spectacular sunsets is Songsong beach on the western shore and smack in the middle of the island's main village, from which this stretch takes its name. But adventurers can find numerous empty pockets of white sand surrounded by jungle off the main road on the south and east sides of the island.

Dive in
Crystal clear water, World War II wrecks and natural cave formations have been calling divers for more than a decade.

"Rota has some of the best visibility in the world. We get spoiled here because we're used to getting better than 100 feet of visibility every day and often up to 200 feet," says Mark Michael of Dive Rota.

Michael and his wife Lynne, owners of Dive Rota, have been guiding divers through the island's 15 world-class sites for 14 years. Although all the sites have a lot to offer, there are two spots the advanced diver should not miss: Senhanom Cave with its stunning streams of light and illuminated grotto and the Shoun Maru, a 400-ft Japanese WWII freighter only 100 feet down. Both are renowned among underwater photographers. Last year, with Michael's help, two captured Chinese smuggling vessels were scuttled to add to Rota's variety and take pressure off the popular Coral Garden nearby. Whether you dive or snorkel, head to the Coral Gardens-underwater camera in tow-where schools of hot pink parrotfish, snappers, butterfly fish, rabbit fish and more swim in droves.

The Scott Fisette golf course at Rota Resort and Country Club Courtesy of Rota Resort

Golf
Stretching along the northwest shore of the island and overlooking the Pacific, the Scott Fisette designed 18-hole, 72 par golf course at Rota Resort and Country Club offers 7,093 yards of international standard fairway. Like everything else on Rota, Fisette's course absorbs the natural surroundings, which have a soothing effect when you've tanked a shot into the jungle. Banyan Trees, ironwoods, pandanas and vermilion hibiscus toss in the breeze, while cheeky, blue kingfishers and brightly breasted fruit doves swoop and wallow. Views from the 12th and 18th, holes, backdropped by the deep blue Pacific are particularly breathtaking. Afterward, have an aromatherapy or sports massage, facial or body wrap at the resort's Nature Spa, also open to non-guests.

Tour around Rota
If you start to feel waterlogged, bike, hike or go by car to Rota's many historical sites and nature parks. Some of the most well-preserved latte stone villages from 2600 BC are found in the rainforests, as well as cave drawings and the Taga Stone Quarry. You need a guide and special permission to see the first two sites, but the Taga Stone Quarry with its mammoth mushroom-shaped caps and giant pillars cut from limestone without iron tools, lie just off a paved road close to the airport. The Antigo Cave Museum has a collection of Chamorran, Spanish and World War II relics. Tonga Cave, just above Songsong village was a Japanese hospital during the war and is easily accessible.

A stop at Gagani Fruit farm for a sampling of Rota's exotic flavors is a must (call ahead for an appointment [532-tour] or take Rota Resort's Island Discovery tour). Run by the Gagani family, the farm has a few stone picnic tables under a huge mango tree that look out over colorful fruit trees and flowers to the cobalt blue sea and Wedding Cake Mountain. After you take a short walk around the grounds, a sampling of exotic tropical fruits, including the pink, pear-shaped mountain apple, tangy green and orange star fruit, fresh locally grown mango, papaya, little local bananas, sweet red panama berries and young coconuts are laid out for a perfect picture before becoming your lunch. The incredible coconut sashimi, skimmed from the fruit's belly and doused in soy sauce, lime and wasabi is the highlight of the meal. The Gaganis also own the Rota Zoo, where furry fruit bats, once a delicacy but now protected, have managed to breed in captivity, much to the amazement of biologists.

Rota's Sagua'gaga Seabird Sanctuary lies below limestone bluffs like a verdant carpet dotted with hundreds of nesting sea birds, boobies and unabashed kingfishers. The best time for bird-watching is at dawn. The Rota swimming hole also offers great photo opportunities.

Wining and dining
Rota has some decent dining options, but a few stand out. Torch-lit Tonga Tonga Cafe in owners Eiko and Daniel Barcinas' backyard serves outstanding local dishes such as steamed lobster, spicy chicken kelaguen with lime and coconut, matiyas (banana leaves stuffed with marinated beef), and a rich, seafood chowder with coconut milk and more. Call ahead for reservations (532-1010). First rate Pacific Rim cuisine and great service can be had at the Pacifica restaurant at Rota Resort, with both indoor and outdoor seating. When you want to hang with the locals, head to Figueroa's Bar, Grill and Inn in Songsong Village (532-2337), where good western fare-hamburgers, tacos, etc.-is served up along with the island's largest beer selection.

Where to stay
Nestled in the jungle and overlooking the sea, the Rota Resort and Country Club, (670) 532-1155, has luxury two and four bedroom suites, starting at US$230/night. Receive a 20% discount on rates when you book through their website or call for special Dive and Golf packages. The resort has planned activities for children and adults, a pool, bar and several dining choices.

Coconut Village has charming, beachfront bungalows, (670) 532-3448, starting from US$55/night.

Jotina Inn, (670) 532-0500, provides clean, budget accommodations starting from US$40/night/person, $10 each additional person.

Getting there
Northwest Airlines (3533-6000), JAL (01-2025-5931) and Continental Micronesia (814-7634-7256) fly to Saipan and Guam.

Freedom Air (670-234-8328) and Pacific Island Aviation (in partnership with Northwest, (670-288-0770) have several flights daily from Guam and Saipan to Rota.

Helpful websites
www.rotaresort.com 
www.diverota.com 
www.visit-marianas.com 
www.rotaisland.com