Singapre' urban jungle

Disciples of designer goods, sun worshippers and fine dining fanatics looking to banish the end of winter blues, head down to the land of eternal summer with Georgia Jacobs for a weekend of tropical fun

Let's face it. Visions of hanami may be dancing in your head, but it could still be a month before your heavy clothes hit the proverbial closet. If you're tired of shaking in your platform shoes or being whipped by the Aoyama wind, six and a half hours south by plane, sunny Singapore awaits. With reasonable round-trip airfare and an abundance of affordable hotels, it's a great place to stock up on designer goods at free-port prices, sample a melange of multi-ethnic cuisine, dance the night away and most importantly, swap that manufactured tan for the real thing.

Despite prudish politicians and the strictest chewing gum policies on the globe, Singapore is a cosmopolitan city. Dressed-down citizens ambling along its streets lend the Merlion City a truly tropical feel. But underneath the veneer, this cultural crossroads is media Mecca, industrial capital and IT haven, where glass high-rises sit comfortably next to meticulously restored colonial buildings painted in cheerful pastels. Singapore is a harmonious mix of old and new world.

River

The Merlion guards the mouth of the Singapore

From the moment you exit immaculate Changi Airport, the balmy tropical breezes greet you with a bear hug. Nothing on this 616km2 island is far. And with a population of around three million, you'll find service generally fast and efficient, the MRT subway comfortably sparse and queues a rare sighting. Fifteen minutes down the Merlion City's immaculate freeways, decorated with lush foliage and bursting pink bougainvillea, you'll be swapping your Tokyo togs for shorts and a swimsuit. There are hotels to suit every budget, but with a barometer hovering at 31C nearly 365 days a year, make sure there is a pool where you can soak up the sun, sip cocktails and relax after a hard day of shopping.

Shopping days
Singapore officially cites shopping and eating as its national pastimes and Orchard Road is its Omotesando. Everything you need, from international designer goods to a top-rate tailor, can be had at this succession of mega-malls, the largest being Paragon, Wisma Atria and Ngee Ann City - where the huge Takashimaya will make you feel right at home until you see the great prices. Several major shopping centers downtown include Raffles City (252 North Bridge Rd), Suntec City (3 Temasek Blvd), and Millenia Walk (9 Raffles Blvd) where the largest duty-free shop (DFS) has unbeatable deals, signs in Japanese and accepts payment in yen.

Shopaholics shouldn't stop there. Many of Singapore's unique cultural treasures are hidden in Chinatown, Little India and on Arab Street, all of which treat your eyes to colonial architecture while they tempt your wallet. Serangoon Road in Little India is lined with small shops selling Indian silks, hand-painted Indonesian batiks, saris, handicrafts, jewelry, aromatic spices and fragrant jasmine garlands. Arab Street retains its old charm and traditional businesses with attractions that include the gold-domed Sultan Mosque (North Bridge Road), textiles, batik sarongs, leather goods and handicrafts. Temple, Pagoda and Trengganu Streets in Chinatown offer cheap electronic goods, gold, jade, watches, cameras, leather goods, and handicrafts hawked out of quaint colonial shophouses. While you're there, visit Sri Mariamman (South Bridge) and Thian Hock Keng (Telok Ayer St) temples, and an old-fashioned medicine hall like Bao Zhi Lin (10 Sago St, 223-3826). Yue Hwa Chinese Products has five floors of porcelain, antiques, jewelry, handicrafts and traditional outfits, all from the Middle Kingdom (70 Eu Tong Sen St, 538-4222).

Best Singapore souvenirs
1. Asia's tailors are world renowned for fine made-to-measure suits at reasonable prices. For suits try Nath & Co, #02-37 Tanglin Shopping Centre, 19 Tanglin Rd, 235-7366. For beautiful tailor-made cheongsams try Icon, #01-04 Orchard Emerald, 218 Orchard Rd, 733-1989.

2. Hand-carved jade is available at Xuanli Jade and Jewelry, #04-15 Beauty World Centre, 144 Upper Bukit Timah Rd, 466-8483.

3. Who knows why, but eyeglasses in Singapore are an unbelievable bargain, even from top designers. It's worth picking up a few pairs. Yes! Your Eyewear Specialists has a huge selection to choose from (Suntec City, 332-5332).

4. Oriental carpets are a bargain. Try The Orientalists, 10 Tanglin Rd, #01-01, 235-3343.

Hindu devotees of Thaipusam pierce their skin with steel spikes to carry the kavadi to honor the god of bravery. It's held sometime in January or February depending on the year.

Shopping tips
1. The 3% GST tax is refundable for purchases over S$300 from stores displaying the sign (you can add receipts of S$100 or more to make the minimum). Ask the retail store to fill out a Tax Free Shopping voucher, which you can cash at the Global Refund Counters in Changi Airport after you declare your souvenirs to customs.

2. Most high-end retail outlets accept major credit cards, but it's wise to bring cash to the cultural shopping areas.

3. Bargaining is accepted in some small shops, but prices are fixed in the major retail stores.

4. Refunds are almost non-existent and exchanges made only when you make a fuss. Think before you buy, as you'll likely be stuck with your purchase.

Calling all culture vultures
All housed in colonial buildings, Asian Civilization (39 Armenian St, 332-3015), Singapore Art (71 Bras Basah Rd, 332-3222) and History (Stamford Rd, 375-2510) museums paint a picture of Singapore and Southeast Asia through their many artifacts and treasures. Catch the Chinese opera at Clarke Quay's Gaslight Square every Wednesday and Friday nights. Performances run from 7:45-8:30pm. To see the artists put on their meticulous makeup and costumes, get there one hour prior to the show. The Singapore Night Safari is the only zoo of its kind in the world. Stroll through its lush paths or take the tram to see animals in a natural setting when they are at their most active - at night. It's a favorite among tourists and locals alike (80 Mandai Lake Rd, 269-3411).

Getting there
Several airlines fly to Singapore (Singapore Air, JAL, United, and Northwest). Round-trip airfare through Golden Week is approximately JY46,000. Check with a local travel agent for details.

Accommodations
Hotel accommodations vary widely. Raffles Hotel (337-1886, S$650 /suite); Ritz-Carlton Millenia (337-8888, starts at S$295 /night); Westin Stamford (338-8585, routinely offers low occupancy rates at S$199, but confirm); The Amara (224-4488, S$105) and YMCA Orchard (336-6000, S$76 SD/single).

Next week: Singapore's second official pastime - eating.