Ruminating at the Bayon Temple

As soon as I arrived in Cambodia I got the feeling it wasn't going to be easy. After paying USD20 for a visa at Pochentong International, we made our way through customs to the only bank open at 8pm on a Sunday. All I wanted was to change USD20 into local currency. The bank employee (whose only "equipment" was a suitcase full of dollars and Riels) informed me that as my bill had a 2mm rip in it, it was no good. Welcome to Cambodia.

My unease was quickly dispelled. Cambodia, once banished from the tourist trek, is now relatively open, and no parts of the country are off-limits to travellers. There is a sense of quiet confidence among Cambodians that peace will prevail. In Phnom Penh, the capital, there's a growing street life, with cafes popping up all over, though Cambodians are not yet night people. Up until recently, there wasn't much going on in the way of after dark activity so most Cambodians are still early risers.

Sunset at Angkor Wat

I travelled with a group of blokes, but we ran into several women travelling alone. While both genders need to exercise the usual travel cautions, fear should no longer keep Cambodia out of your travel plans. Many of the guidebooks are dated, but for the past year it has been fairly quiet for travellers. That having been said, you should still check up-to-the-minute travel advisories before going. But for now, Cambodia has declared itself a country at peace with itself.

Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh is a city rediscovering itself. It's also growing; pictures of the city six years ago showed hardly any cars. Today there's traffic congestion, made all the more challenging because of the complete lack of rules or pedestrian crossings. Traffic - motor vehicles, pedal bikes, humans - circles around the visitor in a noisy, cacophonous free-for-all.
,br>Once you've made the obligatory sightseeing circuit, Phnom Penh is a fascinating place to take in at leisure. An easy city to navigate, its major boulevards run north-south, parallel to the banks of the Tonle Sap and Brassac rivers. The Royal Palace, which overlooks these rivers, has been open to the public since Sihanouk returned to Cambodia. Entry is USD2, USD5 for any cameras you're carrying (including video) and, if you want to visit the center of the palace, a further USD5 entry fee is charged.

Helpful kids at Angkor Wat

One kilometer to the north of the palace is Wat Phnom, set atop a 27 meter tree-covered hill (the only hill in town). Climbers are encouraged to buy a caged bird; set it free and luck will come your way. A ten-minute walk from here brings you to the new market, also referred to as the central market, a reference to its size and location. This is undoubtedly one of the best of Phnom Penh's markets, selling jewelry, T-shirts, antiques, clothing, and more. On the west side of this art deco market are food stalls and fresh fruit juice vendors - don't skip the sugarcane juice!

Taking a riverside walk on the Sisowath Boulevard is highly recommended. Here's where the Tomle Sap and Mekong Rivers connect. Sunset, floating down river on a boat, is a remarkable experience. Boats can be hired for USD10 an hour or USD30 per half day, and are available in front of Psah Chas or Wat Onnaloom.

Phnom Penh is fairly safe, but it's not a late city, and there seem to be no police around after 10pm. Many of the streets have no lighting-I recommend not walking late at night. I hesitate to say take a moto instead (see below), as this is a common target for robbers! At night, motos carrying two people pull up to the side of other motos and rob the passenger at gunpoint. The robbers are not working hand in hand with the moto boys, usually guys just trying to make a living. All they want is your wallet. I didn't have any trouble and haven't heard of anyone being killed, but was told to guard my camera carefully at night. Friends who have visited Phnom Penh have never been robbed, but still - don't carry more money than you need.

Getting there
Phnom Penh is usually the first port of call for visitors to Cambodia. While overland entry from Thailand or Vietnam is also possible, the 45-minute flight from Bangkok (\20,000 round trip) is far more comfortable than the eight-hour, USD10 border crossing from Aranyanaprathet in Eastern Thailand, which takes you to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. The trip from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam to Phnom Penh costs about USD20 and takes five or six hours, but delays are frequent. Taxi dispatchers at the airport will gladly accept US dollars; about USD8 to any destination in Phnom Penh. If you haven't booked a hotel or guesthouse, the driver will take you to a place (for a small commission, of course).

Getting Around
The easiest and least expensive way of zipping around Phnom Penh is on the back of motorcycles known as motos. They're everywhere, with prices running about 1000-3000 Riels. While motorbikes can be rented, they're not recommended as potholes are everywhere, and driving laws might as well not exist in Cambodia for all everyone ignores them. Taxis can be hailed outside most large hotels for USD2-USD4 a trip during the day, or USD3-USD5 at night. The best bet is Taxi Vantha (tel: 023-982-542), 24-hour metered taxis with air-conditioning. Another popular mode of transport are rickshaws-available everywhere, by the hour or the day. A slow but relaxing way to tour the city.

The "lobster boat" to Angkor Wat
What has become known as Angkor Wat is in fact a large area near Siem Reap covering several square kilometers. Angkor Wat is one of many temples within this area, built between the sixth and thirteenth centuries, and currently being restored. In the ninth century, the royal palace of the Khmer was built on a mountain, the Phnom Kulen. The capital was later moved to what is now known as Angkor Thom. During its heyday it was home to more than one million. In the center of Angkor Thom is the Gayon, in which numerous towers, each with four faces, look in the directions of the four winds.

Phnom Penh monks

We travelled by express boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, a small city near Angkor Wat. The boats leave at 7am and take around six to seven hours. Tickets can be bought at any guesthouse or hotel in Phnom Penh for USD20 to USD25 one way. Try to get a seat downstairs. We were sent to the top of the boat, where there are no seats, and with an average speed of 55km an hour, you have to hold onto your hat. Cover your body with clothing and make sure you have plenty of suntan lotion and a pair of shades. I left mine in the baggage compartment of the boat and ended up sick from overexposure and as burnt as a...well, you get the picture. Flights to Siam Reap cost USD170 round trip and leave twice a day from Phnom Penh.

As the boat pulls into Siem Reap, another boat approaches, and thirty touts hold huge welcome signs with your name on it. The touts get these names from the hotel at which the ticket was booked. You are under no obligation to travel with them, but they recommend hotels and will be your driver/guide to the temples. We already had a guesthouse in mind, so the tout drove us there and agreed to be our driver to the temples the next day for USD20. Motorbikes can be hired for USD8 a day, including driver, but if there's a group, the car is a better bet, as it is very hot and you may, like me, need to stay out of the sun.

The entrance to the temples is USD20 for a one-day pass, or USD40 for three days, USD60 for one week. While this is outrageously expensive by Cambodian standards, the high cost is justified by the cost of rebuilding and preserving these exquisite monuments. Tickets may be purchased from your driver or at the temple.