Bangkok needs no introduction; its bad reputation precedes it. Traffic, dirt and dodgy
stomachs are what we hear about first. The temptation to bypass the Thai capital and head
straight for the southern Paradise Islands or the historical and cultural north seems to
cross many peoples' minds. But this infamous city is also renowned for its ornate temples,
floating markets and an extraordinary mixture of Asian culture, old and new. And, of
course, there's also the shopping - fake Rolexes and cheap tailor-made suits galore. The
not-so-nice stuff is half of the package, and half of the reason Bangkok is a must-see.
Bangkok isn't the kind of city whose beauty impresses itself upon you immediately,
especially on the drab 30 minute journey from the airport to the city center. You'll need
to head towards the Chao Praya river to find old Bangkok.
From the airport, those traveling on a budget usually make a beeline for the Khao San Road
where there's a glut of cheap hotels, western bars and internet cafes to suit their
wallets. You can get a room here for as little as 120 Thai Baht (JY400) a night and the
going rate for surfing the Net is a mere 3B (JY10) per minute. A taxi from the airport
will cost about 300B (JY1000). If you've got a bit more cash to spend then Thailand is the
place to live it up, with some of the most luxurious hotels and best service in Asia.
Along the east bank of the Chao Phraya you'll find a series of world class five-star
hotels, including the Oriental, Shangri-La and Royal Orchid Sheraton, all for a snip of
the price you'd pay for the equivalent elsewhere. Double rooms costs 7770B, 4380B and
6758B respectively. Even if your spending won't stretch to a night in one these gems, you
should at least check out the buffet on the riverside terrace every night at The Oriental,
Bangkok's oldest hotel. The food is varied and the location second-to-none. The river, so
busy by day, is simply enchanting at night.
The best way to start the sightseeing trail in Bangkok is
to take a boat trip up the Chao Phraya river - to get your bearings and to get an idea of
the size of the city. It costs 300B to charter your own long boat from one of the piers
nearest the big hotels to Tha Chang, the pier closest to the Grand Palace. Alternatively
you can take the Chao Phraya River Express for a mere 6B. Along the river you'll see a
fascinating combination of modern hotels dwarfing old and dilapidated stilt houses plus a
number of beautiful Wats, glimmering in the sunshine. Shortly after passing under the
memorial bridge you'll see Wat Arun, on the west bank. A brief glimpse at the "Temple
of Dawn" should be enough to convince you to head across the river later for a proper
look. A little further on you'll spot the green, orange and golden roofs and towers of the
Grand Palace. Disembark at Tha Chang for the Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo.
Of
the Wat and the Palace, Wat Phra Kaeo is by far the more impressive, although both areas
will be seething with tour groups throughout the day. To avoid the hoards, turn left past
the towering guard statues as you enter the compound and walk along the inside wall. This
will lead you along one of the galleries, decorated with murals depicting the story of the
Ramakien. On the upper terrace, to your right, there are four main monuments, the most
striking of which is the golden Reliquary. Around the upper terrace are numerous statues
decorated with rainbow-colored glass pieces. Descending onto the lower level again, on the
right side of the compound, will bring you back into the crowds because here you'll find
the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The relic is, in fact, made of jade and you'll be
surprised how small it is compared to the ornamentation and size of the surrounding alter
and building. From the Temple the prescribed route leads you into the grounds of the Grand
Palace itself where you can relax a while before heading back out into the madness.
If Wat Pho is next on your agenda don't be conned into taking a tuk tuk there - it's only
next door but they'll ask anyhow. Wat Pho is famous for its reclining Buddha, which is the
largest such image in Thailand. All 46m of the figure are guilded with gold leaf and the
feet are inlaid with intricate designs in mother-of-pearl. The precincts of Wat Pho are
much more peaceful than those of Phra Kaeo and you can wander around for ages among the
scores of ornate pagodas which litter the grounds. If the heat is getting to you then Wat
Pho is a great place to take a break as it has its own massage school. One hour of
"contorted hermit postures" will cost you 180B (100B for 30mins) and it's
definitely worth a try - if only once.
If you're not totally templed out by now head for the nearest pier, Tha Tien, and make the
hop across the river to Wat Arun; the crossing costs only 2B. This impressive temple is
quite different from the others you will have seen. Its central tower is a tall, angular
Khmer-style structure covered by a mosaic of Chinese porcelain. From the temple you can
also take a peek into the interesting military training school next door.
Another trip along the river offers the
chance to put your feet up after all that walking, so take the boat back across to Than
Tien where you can charter a longboat for 300B per hour. Ask to be taken along the Klong
Bangkok Noi canal, which is off the main river to the north-west. This residential area
makes a nice change from the busy Chao Phraya and you'll see "streets" of
traditional homes on stilts amidst submerged telegraph poles and local traders going from
house to house in wooden canoes. Also around here is the Royal Barge Museum and some more
beautiful Wats.
In the evening there's obviously plenty to do in Bangkok, whether it's sampling the local
cuisine on Silom Road, pubbing Western-style around Banglamphu or go-going in Patpong. The
city has two theaters specializing in Khon and Lakhon forms of Thai dance drama, but some
of the larger hotels also offer this kind of entertainment. The Royal Orchid Sheraton is
one such place, where you can enjoy a riverside buffet of Thai noodles and curries, a
Mongolian barbecue and some deliciously naughty desserts while traditional dancers and
musicians provide the entertainment.
Muay Thai (Thai boxing) is definitely worth a look and conveniently
you can catch it any day of the week at one of two stadiums. The Ratchadamnoen Stadium,
not far from the democracy monument, is the most accessible for those staying on the Khao
San Road or visiting the Grand Palace. If you have the energy for any more walking then
it's a 45 minute walk from Banglamphu to the stadium. Alternatively, if you haven't
already done so, take a tuk tuk. They're cheap - but scary too, so be warned. The boxing
matches start at 6 or 6:20pm and go on until late, so you certainly get your money's
worth. Like Sumo, the match build-up is very important. When they enter the ring each
boxer performs an enchanting ritual dance, which is accompanied by traditional music,
before the fight begins. The live music continues throughout the fight, changing
constantly to mirror the action in the ring. Later in the evening the atmosphere is
fantastic and there's lots of betting and shouting going on during each bout. The best
value seats at Ratchadamnoen are the second class ones (450B) as they are less than half
the price of a ringside spot and still have a fantastic view. After it's all over you can
grab a snack outside from one of the many street vendors and then brave a tuk tuk back to
your hotel.
Three full days in Bangkok is probably enough, although you may want to add another day if
you plan to go to one of the floating markets because it means getting up very early. With
Bangkok airport being the transit hub for flights to other popular destinations such as
Phuket, Samui and Chang Mai, it is definitely worth stopping over and making time to
explore the Thai capital even if your final destination is elsewhere.
The best way to start the sightseeing trail in Bangkok is
to take a boat trip up the Chao Phraya river - to get your bearings and to get an idea of
the size of the city. It costs 300B to charter your own long boat from one of the piers
nearest the big hotels to Tha Chang, the pier closest to the Grand Palace. Alternatively
you can take the Chao Phraya River Express for a mere 6B. Along the river you'll see a
fascinating combination of modern hotels dwarfing old and dilapidated stilt houses plus a
number of beautiful Wats, glimmering in the sunshine. Shortly after passing under the
memorial bridge you'll see Wat Arun, on the west bank. A brief glimpse at the "Temple
of Dawn" should be enough to convince you to head across the river later for a proper
look. A little further on you'll spot the green, orange and golden roofs and towers of the
Grand Palace. Disembark at Tha Chang for the Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo. 
Of
the Wat and the Palace, Wat Phra Kaeo is by far the more impressive, although both areas
will be seething with tour groups throughout the day. To avoid the hoards, turn left past
the towering guard statues as you enter the compound and walk along the inside wall. This
will lead you along one of the galleries, decorated with murals depicting the story of the
Ramakien. On the upper terrace, to your right, there are four main monuments, the most
striking of which is the golden Reliquary. Around the upper terrace are numerous statues
decorated with rainbow-colored glass pieces. Descending onto the lower level again, on the
right side of the compound, will bring you back into the crowds because here you'll find
the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The relic is, in fact, made of jade and you'll be
surprised how small it is compared to the ornamentation and size of the surrounding alter
and building. From the Temple the prescribed route leads you into the grounds of the Grand
Palace itself where you can relax a while before heading back out into the madness. 
Another trip along the river offers the
chance to put your feet up after all that walking, so take the boat back across to Than
Tien where you can charter a longboat for 300B per hour. Ask to be taken along the Klong
Bangkok Noi canal, which is off the main river to the north-west. This residential area
makes a nice change from the busy Chao Phraya and you'll see "streets" of
traditional homes on stilts amidst submerged telegraph poles and local traders going from
house to house in wooden canoes. Also around here is the Royal Barge Museum and some more
beautiful Wats. 
Muay Thai (Thai boxing) is definitely worth a look and conveniently
you can catch it any day of the week at one of two stadiums. The Ratchadamnoen Stadium,
not far from the democracy monument, is the most accessible for those staying on the Khao
San Road or visiting the Grand Palace. If you have the energy for any more walking then
it's a 45 minute walk from Banglamphu to the stadium. Alternatively, if you haven't
already done so, take a tuk tuk. They're cheap - but scary too, so be warned. The boxing
matches start at 6 or 6:20pm and go on until late, so you certainly get your money's
worth. Like Sumo, the match build-up is very important. When they enter the ring each
boxer performs an enchanting ritual dance, which is accompanied by traditional music,
before the fight begins. The live music continues throughout the fight, changing
constantly to mirror the action in the ring. Later in the evening the atmosphere is
fantastic and there's lots of betting and shouting going on during each bout. The best
value seats at Ratchadamnoen are the second class ones (450B) as they are less than half
the price of a ringside spot and still have a fantastic view. After it's all over you can
grab a snack outside from one of the many street vendors and then brave a tuk tuk back to
your hotel. 