For over 130 million undisturbed years the tropical rain forests of Taman Negara in central Peninsular Malaysia have played generous host to an overwhelming biological diversity. Within its 4,343 square kilometers of heavily forested mountains, lowlands and wetlands there are over 10,000 varieties of plants and trees - from palms to oaks and ferns to orchids, and innumerable species of birds and animals of all shapes and sizes - elephants and tigers, barking deer, wild boar, monkeys, and a myriad of bugs and insects. Taman Negara is a natural tonic wrapped up in a wonderland - a paradise for stressed-out city folk from all over Malaysia and around the region.

For urban dwellers, vacationing in the middle of such an ancient rain forest holds many natural surprises, such as strolling beneath the treetop canopy high above the forest floor, discovering three different ginger plant flowers after a lifetime of never seeing even one, floating down the wild rapids or, best of all, a chance to stand still while nature stirs around you.



There may also be some alarming surprises. During my visit, one American family had just set out their al fresco breakfast when some hungry monkeys dropped from an overhanging tree onto their table, scaring the larger primates away. By the time the management arrived to chase off these freeloaders, the table was bare and everyone shared a good laugh; especially the monkeys, for the family was not the first and will not be the last to experience this prank!

A four-hour drive from Kuala Lumpur ends at the Kuala Tembeling landing stage, where the passage upriver begins - the park headquarters at Kuala Takan is only accessible by boat or plane. A motorized longboat putt-putts the three hours upstream, allowing leisurely meditation on the slowly moving scenery, wallowing buffaloes and spirited bird life.

The area was first set aside as King George V National Park by the Sultan of Pahang in 1938, and was renamed Taman Negara after Malaysia won independence from Britain in 1957. It is one of the world's primary centers of conservation and research, harboring endangered tigers, avifauna and migratory bird species. It is frequently used to relocate elephants away from the threat of poachers. The park is a restricted area and all visits must be booked and reserved in advance. Most people stay between two and four days, although there are treks for up to nine days available. Both the tireless adventurer and ambling wanderer will be satisfied by Taman Negara.

Even the shortest walk through such a tropical rain forest is a chance to see diversity in full bloom. The forest floor is a treasure trove of curious insects, flowers and fungi. Walk slowly, then just stand motionless for a while, letting the unaccustomed eye focus on the breathtaking scenery. There's majesty, grandeur, eeriness; often silence.

Within the park's boundaries is Mount Gunung Tahan, at 2187m Malaysia's highest. A three day hike to the summit and back is easily possible, although an experienced guide is mandatory on this and all treks within the park, and good preparation is essential. A quieter day could be spent in the animal-watching hides, or fishing the rivers and lakes. Bird-watching offers the chance to see a mere handful of the 350 varieties of birds that are reputed to pass through Taman Negara, from the crested fireback pheasant to the blue-throated bee-eater and eagles and kingfishers hunting for dinner.

Fishing upriver is a big hit with domestic tourists who delight in occasion of the whole family going fishing and cooking together. The 200 varieties of fish include a large number of carp and good sport is guaranteed. The backwaters of the river tributaries present a dream world entered through tunnels of overhanging growth, which echo sudden warnings of birds, screaming fits of overhead gibbons and the boat's wheezing chug, until around a shallow bend the sky appears above a waterfall. But for grounded species like us, the highlight of any trip to Taman Negara is the chance to move across the forest canopy on suspended bridges between the tallest trees, 25 meters above the forest floor.

The whole secret of Taman Negara's charm is its relative inaccessibility and the delightful hassle of getting there. A general rule in adventure travel seems to be that the longer and harder the journey, the more rewarding the destination.