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When you want to feel like you've done a little international traveling without the drudgery of leaving Tokyo, head to Angkor Wat restaurant near Yoyogi station on the Yamanote line. With a staff of native Cambodians chattering away and a menu that's just as distinctive, you'll forget you're in Japan.

Angkor Wat has a cozy, casual feel, with simple tables and walls covered with Cambodian paintings and travel posters. For JY550 I had the tasty chicken curry of the spicy Southeast Asian variety. The curry was thinner than what we get here in Japan and I slurped it up with a spoon. Rice was served on the side, along with a cup of iced oolong cha to beat the curry's heat.

For those with a heartier appetite, the chicken curry set (JY1,000) includes chicken salad, noodles and pumpkin cake. The prices are cheap - the lunch menu has ten items on it - the most expensive is JY880. There is also a longer menu with an extensive list of dishes. I recommend the fried beef and green pepper with soup at JY780. Angkor Wat beer is JY450, coconut ice cream JY350 and pumpkin cake with coconut ice cream is JY480. A little caution: the menu isn't in English and there are a lot of Kanji characters.

Angkor Wat is a three-minute walk from the recently renovated Yoyogi station. Keep the McDonald's across from the west exit on your left and walk two minutes until you come to the heart-shaped red sign of a bank. The first floor is full of ATMs. Just before the bank, turn right and Angkor Wat is just there. You'll recognize it by the elephant in front.

So the next time you need a short reprieve from the density of Tokyo and have a hankering for something Cambodian, head to Angkor Wat.

Milton Combs