Photos by Yves Merlot

Shimokitazawa is surely one of the most fascinating areas of Tokyo for the alien observer, a warren of streets overflowing with the style and energy of young Japan which reveals new treasures on visit. Just spitting distance from the bustling main thoroughfare is a tiny alley overflowing with unique bars, restaurants and shops. It is in fact a pretty little street with no name in Kitazawa 2-chome, but as home to the popular Heaven's Door pub, it's too much to resist naming the street Heaven's Dori. Food and drink are the main reasons to wander down here. On the thirty meters of Heaven's Dori before it turns into a purely residential street there are six bars and ten restaurants, most of which are very high quality, and several being real gems. Here is a selection of the boldest and the best. Charles Spreckley

Bars
1. Duke
Two bars in one building (two of seven Duke establishments in Shimo). 4F Pueblo Cafe is a small, airy little place (not for large groups of people). B1F "Pueblo Lounge" is a Pasadena meets Hawaii style bar with a questionable music policy but fairly funky decor. Overpriced soft drinks but flashy cocktails. Small cheese-based menu-good fondue, terrible cheese(cake) dips.
Open 6pm-3am. Southern Ishii Bldg, 2-19-17 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-5481-1226).

2. Heaven's Door
Self-professed "English pub" is really more an international bar with Bass and Carlsberg on tap, and forgettable food menu. Live football (soccer); happy hour 6-8pm daily (except Sat, wine and draft beer JY300); artists' exhibitions; film nights. A popular hangout for local gaijin and Japanese too.
Open 6pm till late. Takimoto Bldg 2F, 2-17-10 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3411-6774).

Restaurants
3. Little Saigon
Popular and very cute little Vietnamese hideaway with friendly staff and good food. All the usual dishes available although it's not exactly cheap and it's a bit uncomfortable for large gaijin.
Open 5-11:30pm. Sawadaya Bldg B1F, 2-19-17 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3414-0076).

4. Rokusan
Fun little family-run Japanese pizzeria with small but tasty pizzas and good lunch sets (pizza, salad and drink for JY900).
Open 11:30am-4:30pm, 5:30-10pm. Takimoto Bldg 1F, 2-17-10 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3419-6948).

5. Bistro Tanto
Sort of cook your own, BBQ at the table place, but on small charcoal stoves. Grill your own fish, veggies etc. Good wine selection and superb service. A very classy joint, and not unnecessarily pricey.
Open 5:30pm-12am. Pinecrest Kitazawa 2F, 2-18-2 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3487-2911).

6. Asa
Interesting and stylish hemp theme restaurant, which ODs on the theme but is definitely worth a visit anyhow. The decor is interesting and film of hemp growing wild in Japan plays continuously. Food includes hemp chips, hemp tofu, hemp burgers, hemp drinks, fish with hemp sauce... you get the picture.
Open 5pm-12am (closed Wed). Kitazawa Bldg 3F, 2-18-5 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3412-4118).

7. Hiyori
Organic quality seems to be the main theme of this superb yakitori place, all in a chic setting and with excellent staff (must be something in the water in this street).
Open 5pm-12am. Takahashi Bldg 1F, 2-18-5 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-5433-3329).

8. Shirube
God's gift to izakaya, with superb food and superlative staff. One of the best places to take visitors to Tokyo, it has delicious food, most of which is acceptable to prudish foreign tastes, a beautiful setting and the buzz of young Japan. Everything a meal out in Tokyo should be.
Open 5:30pm-11pm. 1F Pinecrest Kitazawa, 2-18-12 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3413-3784).

9. Raku
Sister of Shirube, Raku also has excellent food in a more refined and quiet setting. Same quality, same friendliness-but without the je ne sais quois.
Open 5:30pm-12pm. Paddyan Bldg B1, 2-17-11 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3795-3724).

Shopping and Services
10. 45 King Bee Records
Soul and funk music store. Stocks cheap secondhand seven inch records, LPs and CDs from Miles Davis and Roberta Flack via the Rolling Stones and Swing Out Sister. Also sells jewelry and Star Wars toys.
Open 1pm-11pm. Takimoto Bldg 3F, 2-17-10 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3487-3374).

11. Zodiac Works
Any guitar freaks out there must make a point of checking out Zodiac Works' range of stylish guitars, made and repaired here on site. Beautifully hand crafted and unique in design, models range from the futuristic "Black Fire" to the skull and crossbones engraved "The Dead" and "The Beat" two-string base.
Open 11am-8pm. Kitazawa Bldg 3F, 2-18-5 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (tel 03-3412-0921, fax 03-3412-7808).

12. Maple I
Everything you ever/never wanted store. Soil for the garden, small kitchen shelves and the latest range of My Melody keitai straps and Doraemon slippers all under one roof. Kinda fun.
Open 11am-9:30pm (Closed Wed). 2-19-17 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (03-3422-7400).

13. Y. Uno
The Takeuchi Rena Flamenco School offers classes for all levels in their tiny basement studio. Free trial and observation lessons available as well as discounted flamenco equipment for sale. Classes range from first timer (JY10,000 for four 75-minute classes) to intermediate (JY15,000 for four 90-minute classes). Other courses and individual tuition available. Call for details, but no English is spoken.
Classes take place at various times between 1pm and 9pm. Call in advance. Kitazawa Bldg B1, 2-18-5 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku (tel/fax 044-933-3998 for info).