There was once a restaurant in New York City with the cute name of Nosmo King and it was,
slightly ahead of its time, completely nonsmoking. (Get it?) Many places in the US soon
followed suit, but Tokyo hangs onto its hard-partyin' chain-smokin' kinda lifestyle, and
asking for a no-smoking table will still net you a raised eyebrow. But there are a few
puffless oases in town. Most of the restaurants mentioned in this week's feature are
smoke-free zones; here are a few more with areas set aside. Zenya Marley
Akaoni
Here's a rarity: an izakaya that discourages smoking. While not strictly forbidden, the
establishment has a posted list of brands they deem too strong to be smoked while imbibing
sake (Akaoni's specialty-they have an enormous selection).
Open 5:30-11:30pm Mon-Fri and 5-11:30pm Sat, Sun and holidays. 2-15-3 Sangenjaya,
Setagaya-ku (03-3410-9918). Nearest stn: Sangenjaya.
Anderson's
The second floor of this bakery is a restaurant serving light meals: breakfast, soup and
salad, sandwiches, etc. Although it's a chain, the other branches are not necessarily
smoke-free. This one was made so through the efforts of a regular customer who
complained-politely-and got results.
Open 8am-10pm (last order 9pm) Mon-Fri and 9am-10pm (last order 9pm) Sat, Sun and
holidays. 5-1-26 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku (03-3407-4833). Nearest stn: Omotesando.
El Torito
Not even remotely close to being the best Mexican in town (La Fiesta gets our nod there),
but this not too authentic Tex-Mex place has a sizable nonsmoking section, where you can
wash down pretty good guacamole and quesadillas with tasty margaritas.
Open 11am-11:30pm daily (last order 10:30pm). 5-1-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku
(03-5466-7917). Nearest stn: Omotesando.
Fukuzushi
Expensive, elegant sushi in an upscale Roppongi locale. Large servings, with the
occasional nod to California influences, and ritzy clientele. Smoking is not allowed at
the sushi bar.
Open 11:30am-2pm and 5:30-11pm (till 10pm on holidays) Mon-Sat. 5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku
(03-3402-4116). Nearest stn: Roppongi.
Kadomae
Okonomiyaki is smoky enough without the added haze from neighboring puffers. This tiny
eatery has three small tables and a counter-length grill, where they dish out delicious
Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki (stuffed with noodles). Keitai are verboten as well.
Open 12-11pm daily. 2-14-1 Kitazawa, OT Bldg 1F, Setagaya-ku (03-3410-8921). Nearest stn:
Shimokitazawa.