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EATING OUT
Gastronomic explorations

Matt Wilce

Matt Wilce gets A Taste of Culture from culinary expert Elizabeth Andoh

If you’ve ever wondered what the difference between white and black sesame or red and white miso are, or how dashi stock is made, then one of Elizabeth Andoh’s A Taste of Culture workshops could be just what you need. New York Times contributor, Gourmet magazine correspondent and longtime Japanophile, Andoh offers a series of unique market tours, tastings and cooking workshops that provide a “window into the culture.Eo:p>

Andoh first started offering her expertise and experience to Tokyo’s foreign residents in the E0s when she started A Taste of Culture as a program for people who wanted to learn how to cook. The first foreign graduate of the Yanagihara Kinsaryu School of Traditional Japanese Cuisine, she capitalized on her unique experience and offered large-scale cooking classes for Tokyoites. After returning to the States and writing three cookbooks on Japanese food, Andoh returned to Tokyo and found there was still a demand for classes. These days A Taste of Culture is a smaller, more intimate affair, hosted in Andoh’s own custom designed kitchen, and the emphasis is more on tasting than cooking. Assuming that people may not “be into cookingEor know much about food, Andoh gives fascinating insights into the simplest of Japanese ingredients. Three basic types of classes make up the culinary curriculum.

Market value
If shopping in Japan bewilders you and the profusion of unfamiliar vegetables, strange dried creatures and seaweed leave you confused then taking a market tour with Andoh will help you figure out what you could be eating. Andoh guides small groups of six round local markets in a two-hour tour that aims to show people “life as it' livedEin the various local neighborhoods. “But I don’t take people to Tsukiji,Eshe emphasizes stating that the focus is on retail not wholesale markets. “For most residents, language is an issue and the focus is different to visitors—residents can buy the various foods but don’t necessarily know how to cook it, and control is a big issue,EAndoh adds. The supermarket tour, which includes information on how to decode package labels, should help demystify many of the items most non-Japanese just pass by.

 

Good taste
The mysteries of miso and other ingredients are explained at Andoh’s tasting sessions. At present there are three basic programs in addition to the miso tasting where participants are guided through up to 12 different varieties. A Taste of the Sea introduces the wonders of what Andoh dubs “sea veggies,Ecalcium packed seaweeds that most gaijin have no idea what to do with. All Dried Up takes tasters through 14 different dried ingredients or kanbutsu, explaining their various uses and how to reconstitute them, while A Taste of Soy introduces various types of tofu and kinako (soy flour). Testimonials on the school’s website attest that learning a little about what goes into Japanese food can really empower you as a diner and inspire you to incorporate more Japanese ingredients into your diet.

 

Sushi school
For the first time in three years, Andoh is also offering two cooking classes, which demonstrate the fundamentals of making sushi. The chirashi class introduces how sushi rice is made and the scattering of tasty treats that cover it when it's served chirashi style. The second class, titled Wrap and Roll, introduces 3-5 patterns of rolled sushi and charts for making other designs.

Try one of the fall classes and expand your culinary horizons. Next time you’re faced with a whole refrigerator full of miso or a shelf of dried mushrooms at the supermarket or friends wonder what exactly went into their favorite Japanese dish you’ll have insider information.

Information:
Market tours ¥5500 per person, tasting programs ¥6500 yen per person, cooking classes ¥7500 per person. To enroll contact Claire Baram (baram@gol.com  ) or call/fax: 03-5443-3473 (10am-4pm Mon-Fri). Further detailed information available from www.tasteofculture.com


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Pizza haven’s

Savoy
2-7-10 Kamimeguro Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-3g714-5160. Open: 6-10pm. Nearest stn: Nakameguro.

Brendan’s Pizzakaya
3-1-9 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3479-8383.Open: 6-11pm daily. Nearest stn: Roppongi.

Spago
5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3423-4025. Open: 11:30am-2pm Mon-Sat, 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 6-9:30pm Sat, Sun and holidays. Nearest stn: Roppongi.

Isola Pizzeria
6-17-2 Shirogane, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5447-2733. Nearest stn: Roppongi.

La Befana
5-31-3 Daita, Setagaya-ku. Tel: 03-3411-9500. Open: 12-2pm,
5:30-10:30pm daily.

Salvatore Cuomo Bros.
Towa Igreg B1, 2-23-14 Higashi Azabu, Minato-ku
Tel: 3582-3680. Atago Green Hills, Kamiyacho. Open Mon-Fri 6pm-12am, Sat, Sun and Holidays 11:30am-12am. Tel: 03-3476-5688.

Sabatini Pizzeria Romana
Suncrest Building, 2-13-5 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3402-2027. Open

Napule
5-6-24 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3797-3790.
Open: 11:30-2am.

Bellini's Pizza Kitchen
3-14-12 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3470-5650. Open: 11:30am-10pm (last order) Mon-Fri, 11:30am-3am Sat-Sun.

La Cantinella
Horibe Bldg. B1F, 4-25-12 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3407-7043. Open: 11:30am-4:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm.



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