Matt Wilce

Maki Nibayashi and Catherine Frances give you the dish on fugu.

A fugu ryotei (restaurant specializing in fugu) is easily recognized by the blowfish-skin lantern hanging outside and the distinctive fish painted on the noren (curtain) over the entrance. Inside traditional fugu ryotei are small low tables on tatami mats and a large fish tank. For optimal freshness, the fish continue to swim innocently until the moment they are ordered from the menu. For the fugu connoisseur, it is particularly important to know where the fish was caught. Shimonoseki (Yamaguchi Prefecture), the strait separating Kyushu from Honshu, is reputedly the best source for this dangerous dish, and fugu caught in the region is delivered daily by shinkansen to many restaurants. The species torafugu (fugu rubripes) is the most prized and expensive, but mafugu (fugu porphyreus) is also popular.

Several popular fugu dishes use almost every part of the fish. For instance, in a rather pungent drink called hirezake, even the tiny fins are toasted, then stewed in hot sake.

The most popular dish is fugu sashi (raw fugu), which is usually made from torafugu. It is considered one of the most beautiful types of sashimi as the fish is cut so thin it becomes almost transparent, and the pattern on the large circular plate on which it is artistically arranged shows through the flesh. Fugu sashi costs JY3000-JY6000 per person and is served with ponzu, a sour citrus sauce, chives and grated daikon radish.

In a typical set menu, this would be followed by fugu-chiri, a nabe (hot pot) dish that is cooked at the table. Pieces of fish are boiled in a broth with mushrooms, tofu, carrot, Chinese cabbage and chrysanthemum leaves. Afterwards, the remaining liquid is seasoned with ponzu, mixed with rice and egg and heated to make a porrige dish called fugu zosui. Sometimes mizutaki (simple boiled fugu) is served instead. The average cost of a three-course meal with hirezake is JY10,000 per person.

During winter the toxins are at a minimum, and the flesh becomes firmer and more appetizing. The meat is a cross between chewy and crunchy and said to go "shiko shiko" in the mouth when it is fresh. Here are a few places where you can sample the flavor for yourself:

Shunsagami
First established in 1936, Shunsagami has six branches in the Kanto area and serves over 60 different fugu dishes. By far, the best way to try fugu on their menu is the fugu-chiri. Try it with freshly made ponzu and fugu zosui afterwards.
Open 11am-10:30pm. Odakyu Manhattan Hills 13F, 1-1-3 Nishi Shinjuku. 03-3343-4885. Nearest stn: Shinjuku stn, west exit.


Tsukitei
This quaint little restaurant in Ikebukuro first began concentrating on fugu dishes three years ago. Reservations for their fugu course dinner (JY3900) are hard to come by, particularly in January.
Open 4-11pm, closed Sundays and holidays. 1-39-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku. 03-3986-3321. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro stn, west exit behind the Tobu department store.


Ajioka
This famous Kansai-style fugu restaurant's motto is "Everything we serve is guaranteed to be fresh." All of the fish is flown in straight from Shimonoseki. Their fugu no arayaki (grilled fugu head and cheeks, JY3800) is a must-try and best eaten with your fingers.
Open 5-10:30pm, closed Sundays and holidays. New Comparu Bldg. 6F, 7-7-12 Ginza. 03-3574-8844. Nearest stn: Ginza stn, near Chuo Dori.


Ikesu
Located in Kichijoji, this family favorite has a large tank in the center where you can choose your own fish for them to prepare. Their fugu sashi is JY1980.
Open 11:30am-2pm, 5-11pm. 1-5-25 Higashi-machi, Kichijoji. 0422-21-1438. Nearest stn: Kichijoji stn, near Seiyu.


Fuguyoshi
Every morning, a truckload of fugu (600 of them to be exact!) is delivered, then devoured each day here at Fuguyoshi. What most people come here for is the fugu-chiri (JY1980 per person).
Open 5-11:30pm. 2-13-8 Ikebukuro. 03-5951-1929. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro stn, west exit. Reservations highly recommended.