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Used and Abused

Ever since Edo times Tokyoites have known how to dress to impress, and thanks to the economic gloom of the 1990s they have learnt how to do it on the cheap. Although clothes are still discarded more hastily than they are in the West, there is now a booming sub-culture of secondhand shops right across the city. Margaret Savage has been rummaging through the flares and fleeces to bring you some pointers on where to find your new look for less than the price of a Calvin Klein coat hanger.

Photos by Beezer

When I was growing up in New England, fall was back-to-school season and that always meant the pleasure of shopping for new clothes. Mom and I would trudge to the malls for a mix and match feast, argue about styles, and still come home with a mountain of packages which held the promise of a new start, a new identity. Tokyo is a shopping playground, but the high fashion often comes with an accordingly high price tag. Find yourself drooling in front of Hanae Mori's shop windows? Mom's credit card is no longer available? Don't fear. This fall you can still buy clothes and not break the bank. You can choose from all the fashions you want, and your mother won't be here to disapprove: buy secondhand.

Since the Bubble burst, recycle shops have cropped up everywhere in Tokyo. They sell everything from skirts and pants to petticoats and bowling shirts, not to mention accessories and baby clothes. Even T-shirts are amusing finds when they reveal those hilarious Japlish slogans which are increasingly difficult to find. There's a wider range of styles on the secondhand rack, giving you lots of room to create your own individual look: Hippie? Flapper? Greaser? Groover? It's fun to have several wardrobes and several looks. After all, clothes reflect who you are and can release all your different personas and moods.

Fortunately, the quality of recycle shops in Tokyo is high. As we all know, the Japanese are not fond of things getting old and tend to give away nearly brand-new items so they can hop on to the next trend. That means the clothes in these shops are in very good condition.

Fall is here and the air is getting cooler. It's a great time to get out and roam the neighborhoods of this crazed city and see what it has to offer. Take your time; ditch the trains and walk. You might even run into an autumn festival while you're out (I saw several).

Following is a mere sample of what's out there. (Most shops sell both men's and women's clothing unless specified.) There's much more just waiting to be found. These shops are like those pesky summer insects - where there's one, there's many. You're on your own!

Wakamiya
The shop Tiffana is loaded with designer goods. Clothes include suits, coats, casual, lingerie and baby clothes. They also have shoes, Vuitton wallets, Tiffany jewelry, vintage sunglasses, coach bags, and much more. Recommended for brand name followers. They also buy goods.
Open 10am-9pm. Wakamiya 3-18-4, Nakano-ku. (03-3336-3327). Toritsukasei stn (Seibu Shinjuku line). Exit and turn left, three-minute walk.

Daikanyama
For vintage, your best bet is Antiqulosium. They have an interesting collection of dresses, blouses, hats, pins, and bags from Victorian to early '60s. They also have an impressive array of costume jewelry. Wonderful stuff, but not cheap.
Open Mon-Sat 12pm-10pm, Sun 12pm-9pm. Tokyu Apt B1, Daikanyama-cho 20-23, Shibuya-ku (03-3461-5295). www.antiqulosium.co.jp
Daikanyama stn (Toyoko line) Turn right down onto Hachiman Dori and turn right again.

Department East is a typical recycle shop with generic jeans and T-shirts, but has an enormous selection of '70s polyester groove shirts in any kind of loud color and psychedelic pattern you can imagine. They do grow on you. What makes it worth the trip, though, are the men's vintage pajama shirts. These big, flannel-lined shirts are perfect for a funky fall look. Great designs and quality.
Open 11:54am-8pm Daikanyama Twin Bldg A 2F, Sarugaku-cho 30-3, Shibuya-ku (03-3464-6141). Daikanyama stn (Toyoko line) Turn left at Hachiman Dori and down the hill past the koban to where Komazawa Dori meets Kyu-yamate Dori.

Shimokitazawa
The open air Once Upon A Time is famous for doubling as an evening samba bar called Pierrot. During the day, their racks are filled with wonders: Boy Scout shirts, gas station workers' shirts with name tags, "ethnic" crinkle skirts and embroidered tops, petticoats (great idea!) and baby clothes. The T-shirts are just that, but do include some winners: "The 2001", "Always be free, filled with mind, and cool."
Open Mon-Fri 12pm-7:45pm, Sat/Sun 11am-7:45pm. Kitazawa 2-1-8, Setagaya-ku (no telephone). Shimokitazawa stn (Odakyu, Inokashira lines). Take the South exit and walk straight down the shopping street to the intersection at the bottom.

Irohado has great winter gear: Plaid wool skirts (even kilts!) and lots of wool coats, including trench coats and sheepskin-collar jackets. Nordic sweaters and flannel shirts are also must-haves for the upcoming chilly weather. One half of their shop is new merchandise where they sell a wide assortment of wool berets for a mere JY1300.
Open 11am-8pm. Kitazawa 2-14-18, Setagaya-ku (03-5481-7715). Shimokitazawa stn (Odakyu, Inokashira lines) Take the South exit, walk straight down the shopping street and it's on the left.

feature3.jpg (18343 ???)Down the street from Irohado is Asahiya Yohinten, an eclectic mix of goods and gags. They have T-shirts (mostly pseudo-uni's and sports teams) and jeans, but also taffeta petticoats, '70s groove dresses, kimono, sneakers and cowboy boots. The clothes are past the whoopee cushions and blowup dolls.
Open 12pm-8pm. Kitazawa 2-2-7, Setagaya-ku (03-5430-9570), Shimokitazawa stn (Odakyu, Inokashira lines) A little further alothe street from Irohado.

Ikebukuro
There are lots of reasons to go to the Tokyo Folkcraft and Antiques Hall and one of them is a tiny booth in the back of the store where a little old woman sells vintage items. Last time I checked she had cloche hats, a velvet cape, a top hat from Christie's in London and cases of brooches and costume jewelry. There's not much here, but it's worth a look if you're out and about, and the rest of the store is a treasure trove.
Open 11am-6:30pm, closed Thursday. Satomi Building 1F, Minami Ikebukuro 3-9-5, Toshima-ku (03-3982-3433). Ikebukuro stn, Seibu exit, turn right, 5-8 minute walk.

Koenji
Under Watahs sells American clothes, mostly sweatshirts, jeans and flannels. But what makes this store unique is the collection of goods from the '60s and '70s that sent me reeling down memory lane. Indian bead kits (dead stock from 1969!), Koolaid icicle pop makers, Tom and Jerry cups made from jam jars and old license plates. The nostalgia factor makes it worth the trip.
Open 12-8pm. Koenji-kita 3-3-10, Suginami-ku (03-3223-1248). Koenji stn (Chuo line), North exit, on Naka Dori.

Morning Sun (Asahiya Yohinten) has lots of nice materials: Velvet dresses, leather coats, suede pants. The prices are decent and the selection is too. They carry everything from T-shirts to party dresses and suits.
Open 12-8pm. Koenji-minami 2-48-6, Suginami-ku (03-3312-5477). Koenji stn (Chuo line), South exit. Walk on the covered street, Pal Dori, and keep going when the roof ends.

Next to Morning Sun is Vagabond Bone, and it is here that I rediscovered bell bottoms, which I was too young to fully appreciate when they were in the first time. Other slacks include a wide selection of corduroys and wools. They also have wool coats and plaid skirts, ponchos and capes (a rarity!) and nifty velour blazers (snagged one for JY2400). Good prices.
Open 12-9pm. Sakaeya Bldg 2F, Koenji-minami 2-22-12, Suginami-ku (03-3315-8598). Koenji stn (Chuo line), South exit. Next to Morning Sun.

Ueno
Under the railroad tracks on Ameya Yokocho is Sundries Town, where you can find just about anything from sneakers to military gear. Along the way, enjoy the froggy-throated fish mongers calling out prices for their unimaginable treasures from the sea. Also good bargains on tea and coffee.
Open until early evening (no telephone). Ueno stn, Hirokoji exit.

Harajuku
Takeshita Dori as an excellent place to hunt for deals, but one gem of a bargain basement is Chicago. The place is literally chock-a-block full with T-shirts (again mainly of the US uni/sports team/society variety), trendy training gear for the clubbers, jeans, hats, coats - you name it. With prices starting at JY600 for a T-shirt it's shockingly good value too.
Open Meiji Jingumae stn (Chiyoda line). On Omotesando Dori, a few doors up from Condomania towards JR Harajuku stn.

I have to include the Oriental Bazaar here, as their basement has one of the best collections of vintage Japanese clothes at good prices. Last time I bought two haori for JY3500 and JY4000. Both silk and in mint condition inside and out. They have kimono, obi, happi - the works. You're only limited by your ideas here.
Open 9:30am-6:30pm, closed Thursdays. Jingumae 5-9-13, Shibuya-ku (03-3400-3933). Meiji Jingumae stn (Chiyoda line), on Omotesando Dori towards Omotesando Crossing.

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