| Restaurant Review |
By Steve Trautlein |
57
Tokyo gets a true taste of
New York City—finally
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| Photo courtesy of 57 |
Tokyo has a long way to go before it’s as cool as New York, but thanks to restaurant 57, the city is well on its way.
With an offhand elegance and a smooth New York vibe, this contemporary grill is the closest thing to The Big Apple you’ll
find on our side of the planet.
A large part of 57’s success is due to its energetic young executive chef, Fumio Yonezawa, a veteran of such restaurants as Manhattan’s multi-Michelin-starred Jean Georges. Yonezawa’s menu flashes serious attitude, with generous cuts of meat and side dishes like “crispy smashed potatoes with gorgonzola.” But look closer, and you’ll also be surprised by the subtlety—on a recent visit, an order of poached salmon was so delicately cooked and gently spiced that we could only compare it to a choice cut of sashimi.
Over the course of several dinners since 57’s opening last spring, we’ve never experienced even one false note from the kitchen—and
a couple of dishes have entered our pantheon of all-time favorites. Crab salad ringed with sliced avocado comes dressed in a curry-flavored mayonnaise that, like a favorite song, we can’t get out of our heads (¥1,800). Yonezawa’s signature appetizer, roasted beet salad with walnuts, frisée and gorgonzola (¥1,500), blends the earthy root vegetable with crunchy nuts and heady cheese. Neglect this dish at your own peril.
But 57 prides itself on its grill, and rightly so. The fabulous NY strip steak (¥1,800 per 100g) is winning in its simplicity—even the light sprinkling of fried onions seems superfluous. The grilled pork chop is just as straightforward and almost as delicious, served with a sweet ribbon of spiced apple puree (¥1,200 per 100g). Like a true-blue New York steakhouse, 57 lets diners choose their side dishes—be sure not to miss the cauliflower and Gruyere gratin (¥1,000), whose finely chopped vegetables are, without fail, perfectly crisp-tender after their time in the oven.
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New York transplants are sure to be pleased by 57’s striking interior, a vast, moodily lit space sectioned off into a plush lounge,
a roomy standing bar, and a clean-lined dining room with a semi-open kitchen; a couple of VIP areas are also dotted about. Thanks to happy-hour deals and frequent DJ events, 57 has become a favorite of both clubbers and the expat after-work crowd. The dining room always seems to attract couples, and if there’s a better way to spend a romantic evening than in 57’s cozy lounge, please let us know about it.
Until recently, the one thing that 57 lacked was buzz; many nights would find both bar and dining room seriously underpopulated. When we stopped by on a recent Wednesday, however, we were lucky to snag a seat without a reservation. It’s obvious that word has gotten out about this corner of New York in Tokyo. From now on, you’d better call ahead.
B1F-4-2-35 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5775-7857. Open Mon-Wed 6pm-midnight, Thu-Sat 6pm-midnight (LO; bar open until 2am). Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.fiftyseven.co.jp
Our first visit to Hei Fung Terrace certainly won’t be our last—the Cantonese restaurant at The Peninsula Tokyo hotel serves up some of the best Chinese food in the city. Perfect for a date or special occasion, the basic prix fixe lunch is a six-course feast of supreme freshness and quality (¥4,280). Although we had eaten all the dishes before, never had we enjoyed such ideal versions of each. The course gets going in earnest with a special dim sum combination: steamed gyoza and a luscious shumai dumpling. Next up comes a starchy bean curd soup that’s brimming with seafood, followed by
a stew of bone-in pork ribs with mushrooms. The next dish was a revelation: fried white-meat fish with lemon sauce. A golden, almost crispy coating surrounds a rectangle of flaky fish, slathered in a slightly tart sauce that has the consistency of syrup. Chunks of chicken and fish enlivened the piping-hot fried rice that followed, while dessert was silky coconut milk with tapioca. Our fellow diners comprised groups of ladies of all ages, which didn’t surprise us at all—Hei Fung Terrace’s graceful interior recreates the charm of a classic Cantonese eatery, while The Peninsula’s address guarantees a steady stream of well-dressed lunchers. We’ll be joining them again before too long.
2F The Peninsula Tokyo, 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku.
Tel: 03-6270 2738. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 6-10pm.
Nearest stn: Hibiya. http://tokyo.peninsula.com ST
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