Salon de Champagne Vionys
Sip quality bubbly on the cheap at this subdued Ginza lounge

Photo by Tiger Jet Shin-Ichiro

Makoto Abe, who owns Salon de Champagne Vionys and the nearby Vionys Bistro, certainly knows his bubbly. The winner of numerous Japanese and international sommelier competitions, Abe has strong relationships with producers in France, which allow him to stock over 200 kinds of champagne and keep prices much lower than you’d expect. This might seem intimidating, so much so that you feel the urge to study up—but there’s really no need. Salon de Champagne Vionys is open and warm, and its staff is knowledgeable without condescension.

I stopped by Vionys with a friend after a hot summer day. Inside, the light is soft and the air cool, and Kimiko Takei, the young manager and sommelier, meets us at the door.

We sit at the marble bar counter and start with the “Happy Awa” set. (Awa is Japanese for foam, or in this case, bubbles.) The set costs ¥4,200 for two hours of all-you-can-drink of the label of the month, and is available every weekday—just order before 7:30pm. An alternative is the “Drink Study” set (¥4,200), a choice of three recommended labels and three appetizers selected to match.

The Happy Awa set comes with a small cup of carrot potage that softens the bounce of the dry Lanson Black Label Brut, which has notes of citrus and lemon. We also order pâté (¥1,890) and foie gras risotto (¥2,415). The risotto is one of the most popular items on the menu, and with good reason.

As the champagne flows, light laughter wafts over the salon. Along the narrow bar, mostly women—looking young and career-oriented—engage in easy conversation. A business-client dinner, and the only table with more than one man, appears to be taking place at the front. The group is getting quite gassed, but the men behave themselves, refraining from the usual barking and back-slapping that often accompanies these nomikai. Happy Awa is quite mellow.

Bubbles. Champagne, when you think about it, really is all about bubbles—the effervescent result of the methode champenoise, the second fermentation that transforms wine into champagne. Legend has it that Dom Perignon, the 17th-century Benedictine monk, upon sampling wine sparkling with bubbles exclaimed, “Come, I’m drinking the stars.” The story may be apocryphal, but the sentiment holds true at Vionys.

We move into our second hour and Takei-san comes by. She is speaking English now. I’m unsure whether I’m speaking Japanese or English, but her reactions indicate that we’re communicating.

A full Iberico ham (¥2,310) is brought out behind the bar and thickly sliced. It’s much heavier than prosciutto, more like bacon, and a welcome counterpoint, providing me with ballast in a sea of champagne.

Suddenly, our time is up. Takei-san recommends a glass of Jacques DeFrance Rose Brut (¥2,890) for the grand finale. I wisely follow her advice, and it’s perfect—dry, with some characteristics of Burgundy.

Outside in the street, the cool of evening has arrived. It’s still early, and we’re in Ginza…

3F 8818 Bldg, 8-8-18 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-5537-0700. Open Mon-Fri 6pm-3am, Sat 6-11pm (LO), closed Sun. Nearest stn: Shinbashi or Ginza. www.vionys.com/salon

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