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| Travel |
By Jack Turner and Anna Kitanaka |
Macau
Head to the “Asian Las Vegas” for an easy getaway from Tokyo
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| Courtesy of Macau Government Tourist Office |
There are two Macaus. One is rich with Chinese and Portuguese culture, a legacy of the nearly 450 years of Portuguese colonial rule that ended in 1999. The other is simply rich.
After the government opened up to Western gaming companies in 2002, Macau’s gambling scene exploded, spawning self-contained cities in the form of five-star casinos. Today, more money flows through Macau than Las Vegas. Indeed, there are some spectacular sights to be seen, like the Venetian Hotel, which is based on the Las Vegas version, only bigger. More hotels, more casinos, more unadulterated fun is the name of the game in Macau.
The gold medal for bling and decadence, though, would have to go to the five-star MGM Hotel (above), which opened in December 2007. The standard rooms are fitted with the usual Vegas-esque gold fittings, Egyptian cotton sheets, and the like, but the suites are where it’s at. The elevators leading to these palatial accommodations are covered in amethyst and mirrors, providing a disconcerting, trippy ride up 30 floors. The corridors are a bright gold, and inside the suites are classic furnishings—and no costs spared. The marble shower room could fit about 10 people, with a bench inside for those waiting. We were unable to find out whether the Hotel Okura will be adding one of these when it opens in Macau in 2009.
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Courtesy of Macau MGM Grand |
The casino floor occupies over 20,000 square feet of space, with the mighty Lion’s Bar located right in the middle. The bar throngs with women from every walk of life, albeit heavy on those from the nicer side of it.
A live band plays six nights a week, and drinks are relatively cheap at about ¥450. This is important in giving the punters from Japan the feeling that they’re saving money, which they can then use on the tables. And what self-respecting red-blooded male, after playing a bad hand in the bar, can resist the call of the card tables on the way back to his room? It is difficult in the light of day to work out how much a local MOP (Macau Pataca, the local currency) is worth, but in the early hours of the morning, “double-up-MOPS” sounds like the call of destiny.
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| Courtesy of Macau MGM Grand |
If you are looking for a lively shopping experience, the Venetian Macao Resort Hotel is a retail complex housing over 350 shops spread across a staggering 1 million square feet. From Sisley to Swarovski, everything is at a comparatively lower price than in Japan. And, if you find yourself with shopping fatigue, there is a highly amusing singing gondola ride through the Venetian’s “canals,” where you can watch all the shops float by to some Italian warbling.
Despite all the glamour, there’s no mistaking that Macau is still China. The little holes in the polish and gloss of the service are especially noticeable if you’re used to Japanese notions of hospitality. But this merely adds to the character of the place. Macau is a marvel in the making that can’t escape either its rapid growing pains or its location.
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Courtesy of Viva Macau |
Now, to address the inevitable comparisons to its overseas counterparts. Hong Kong is a business town and Las Vegas is for play. Macau is also very much for play, but it has a second arrow in its quiver: the culture and history instilled by the Portuguese during their four centuries of colonization. Visitors who have had enough of the booze, gambling and bling can break up their trip with some legitimate cultural activities.
The Ruins of St Paul’s is the mighty façade of Macau’s original St Paul’s Church—the first university built in the Far East. It lies just a short stroll up from Largo do Senado, the stunning central piazza that’s surrounded by classic Portuguese baroque-style buildings. Either destination would make the shortlist of any global tourism list.
Being one part Vegas, one part Portugal, and one part China, as well as exhibiting a combination of old and new, of decadence and high culture, Macau really does have something for everyone.
The peninsula and islets lie just southwest of Hong Kong. The easiest way to get there is to jump on a Viva Macau direct, four-hour flight from Narita (www.flyvivamacau.com/jp). Don’t be afraid to grab a taxi at the airport and head into the city (around ¥700 for the ride), where five-star hotels like the MGM Grand (www.mgmgrandmacau.com) await. For those on a more modest budget, check out www.macau.com, where you will find everything you need to know about hotels and sights to see. One not-to-be missed gem is Margaret’s Café (2852-7791), where the Portuguese coffee can cure even the strongest hangover and the egg tarts are sublime. Just ask a local for directions, as everyone knows the place. Macau is small, and the taxis are legit, so you can either walk your way around or be driven for a reasonable rate. The hot and muggy weather is not unlike a Japanese summer. However, unlike Japan, the islands are so small that you never feel enclosed in a concrete jungle, and a short walk (no more than 10 minutes) in any direction will lead you to the sea. For more information, see the website of the Macau Government Tourist Office (www.macautourism.gov.mo/en). |
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