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Kumano
Lose yourself in the natural splendor of Japan’s spiritual center
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| Photos courtesy of Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau |
Anyone who travels to Kumano is likely to be overwhelmed by the region’s varied pleasures, no matter what their original reasons were for visiting. Weary Tokyoites searching for a weekend of leisure will be amazed by the abundant options for relaxation, including delicious local cuisine and a slew of natural hot springs. Those who arrive seeking to understand Japan’s religious roots will come away fulfilled, as the region prides itself in being a spiritual center where differing systems of belief have been welcomed for over 1,000 years. And adventure seekers fervent for a hike through rugged terrain along a barely beaten path, or a kayaking trip through rivers surrounded by thick forest, will find countless trails and waterways that are worth the inevitable aches to follow.
Located in the southern region of the Kii Peninsula, just south
of Osaka, Kumano has already received international recognition for its spiritual qualities. In May 2004, the area’s “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes” were collectively registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. For over 1,000 years, people from all rungs of society have made their pilgrimage to places like the Kumano Sanzan, a term referring to Hongu Taisha, Nachi Taisha and Hayatama Taisha. These three grand shrines were originally devoted to Shintoism, but soon merged with Buddhist traditions to create a system of beliefs as complex as it is unique to the rest of Japan. This makes Kumano an essential stopping point for those fascinated by Japanese spirituality.
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Kumano Hongu Taisha was partially destroyed by flooding in 1889 and consequently moved to another nearby location, but the original site still holds divine value, and its entrance is marked by the world’s largest torii gate. If you visit Kumano in mid-July, be sure to stop by Nachi Taisha for the Nachinohi Matsuri. The shrine itself lies adjacent to Japan’s tallest waterfall, which is an object of worship at this massive fire festival—one of the three largest in Japan—where 6m portable shrines representing the waterfall are “purified” by massive torches carried by men in white.
The shrines are easily accessible by car or bus, but some may prefer reaching them on foot via the original Nakahechi pilgrimage trails. Walking through gorgeous mountain villages and enjoying awe-inspiring views, hikers will find it much easier to understand why Kumano holds such spiritual importance. Many will also be astonished by the friendliness of the locals, who are known to welcome weary travelers, both Japanese and foreigner alike, into their homes for refreshments.
The Nakahechi trail starts near Tanabe City, at the base of the Kii Peninsula, and is used to access all three of the grand shrines. For lodging, there are plenty of traditional ryokan throughout the mountain villages, as well as Kumano Kodo Takahara Lodge, which opened last April and provides stunning views of the Kii mountain range.
Sections of the route follow the Kumano River, which is a popular playground for kayakers. The stream has very few rapids, so there are routes safe enough for beginners and children. Kumano Experience Outdoors Services provides one- or two-day tours along the river, as well as hiking trips. Those with more experience can also contact the company for sea kayaking trips along the coast.
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No matter what trail you take, you’ll definitely earn a refreshing dip in an onsen when you’re through. Near Hongu Taisha is the Kawayu Onsen, where, during the summer, bathers can dig their own hot spring bath along the cool river basin. In the winter, one section of the entire river is dug out to create a giant bath, known as sennin-buro for being able to accommodate over 1,000 people. Also worth visiting is the Tsuboyu onsen, just north of Kawayu—entry is ¥750, and it’s the world’s only hot spring open for bathing that is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Kumano has long been considered a place of self-discovery,
purification and healing. Whether you’re looking for a profound journey through an unmatched cultural landscape or simply a chance to escape
the hurried routine of urban life, Kumano is a fantastic destination to recharge and refresh.
| Nanki-Shirahama Airport is located at the base of the Kii Peninsula next to Tanabe City, and has direct one-hour flights running daily from Haneda. Shinkansen trains from Tokyo will take roughly five hours, and can be more expensive. For transportation within the region, one train line runs along the coast of the peninsula, with access to inland areas provided via bus. Very few sites provide English-speaking service, particularly for lodging, so it would be best to contact the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau for assistance (0739-26-9025; www.tb-kumano.jp/en). To make inquiries/reservations at Kumano Kodo Takahara Lodge, call 073-422-4631. Kumano Experience Outdoors Services (0735-43-0303; www.kumano-experience.com) provide travel packages for all levels and ages. |
Got some cash to spare? Travel agency JTB Corp is offering a 10-day luxury tour to Europe, for ¥22.4 million per couple. The trip includes business-class flights between Japan and Europe, a flight to Greece, Italy and France on a private jet, and a stay at a villa owned by the founding family of Italian brand Salvatore Ferragamo. The tour will run in July, June and September. Details can be obtained at JTB outlets.
Northwest Airlines (www.nwa.co.jp), which recently announced plans to merge with Delta, is resuming flights to Taipei from its hub in Tokyo from August 31. The new service will benefit those flying into Asia from the US, but also Tokyoites who want to experience Taiwan.
Yokohama got a new hotel in April with the opening of the Hotel Associa Shin-Yokohama (www.associa.com/english/syh). Built directly above the shinkansen terminal of Shin-Yokohama station, Associa bills itself as a relaxing hub for both businesspeople and tourists. The direct elevator from the terminal takes guests to the hotel lobby on the 10th floor, and the 203 guest rooms are all equipped with PCs and high-speed internet. Rates start at ¥18,000. For reservations, call 045-475-0011 or check out the website. CB |
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