| Bar Review |
By Beau Miller
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Grail
Sample the best whisky on
Earth at this Nishi-Azabu pub
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Photos by Kohji Shiiki |
Hokkaido’s Yoichi 20-Year was recently named the world’s Best Single Malt by Whisky Magazine, suggesting Japanese distillers are finally being offered a seat at the table alongside the traditional powerhouses from Scotland, Ireland, Canada and the United States.
But despite the array of fine domestic whiskies, many Japanese have long harbored a preference for the imported—which explains the inordinate number of Tokyo bars serving all manner of foreign firewater. Grail is one such spot.
Walking into this second-floor pub is not unlike walking into a very well-stocked pub in Edinburgh or Glasgow. Nearly 50 varieties of scotch are on offer, divided by region: Highland, Lowland, Island, Campbell Town, Islay Malt and Speyside (all are in the range of ¥800-¥1,100). Standards like Laphroaig, Macallan and The Glenlivet are listed among dozens of other rarer bottles. Additionally, there are three Scottish “classic” whiskies served straight from the cask (¥1,200 each).
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Beer (¥600-¥1,000), wine (¥800 glass/¥4,000 bottle), cocktails (¥700-¥1,000) and about a dozen other whiskeys are also available, but scotch is the star of the show. The food menu even features a long list of ¥300 dishes to accompany your whisky, including pork jerky, camembert cheese, and healthier options like pickled vegetables and fresh salted tomatoes. But the kitchen hardly limits itself to such simple fare.
The owner and staff of Grail recently returned from their second company trip to Scotland, where they toured distilleries and sampled the local cuisine. These trips help to explain two of Grail’s most appealing qualities: one, the employees clearly love their jobs, and two, the food is first-rate.
No fewer than four dishes center on the potato, including a baked variety (¥380; toppings ¥200 each), bangers & mash (¥1,180), and fish & chips (¥880/¥1,480). We tried the simple baked potato, which came steaming hot in aluminum foil with garlic butter and melted blue cheese. A bit salty, but hardly a bad deal at ¥580.
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We also paired a pint of Guinness (¥1,000) with some slices of the delicious house-smoked tofu (¥480), which needed no extra seasoning but nonetheless arrived with wasabi, lemon, salt and soy sauce. Rounding out our mini-meal was a warm salad (¥880) of steamed asparagus and broccoli, topped with a poached egg and creamy dressing, and a dessert of warm brownie (¥780) with ice cream, strawberries, whipped cream and fresh mint.
Grail has all the makings of a local: a generous happy hour (6-8pm) six days a week, free wireless internet and personalized service. Regulars talk fondly of the time the bartender offered to come in early to turn on the rugby game and make sandwiches. So the next time you’re in the neighborhood, drop in for some Scottish hospitality—paired with a highball of homegrown Yoichi.
205 Azabu Empire Mansion, 4-11-26 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3499-6366. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-5am, closed Sun. Nearest stn: Hiroo or Roppongi. www.grailbar.com
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Have you heard? Monday, August 4 is Beer Hall Day at The Dubliners’ Irish Pub. What is Beer Hall Day, you might ask? For one day only, pints of draft beer will be sold for just ¥500. At which branch? All six of ’em! And if you can’t wait until then, stop by any of the locations (in Shibuya, Shinjuku, Akasaka, Shinagawa, Toranomon or Ikebukuro) between July 28 and August 3, and for every pint you drink, receive a ¥100 discount ticket redeemable on or after August 5.
It’s easy to grow tired of visiting the same Roppongi watering holes week after week. Opened last month, Zero Bar (1F Roppongi 410 Bldg, 4-10-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku; 03-5775-0100; www.zerobar.jp) promises something fresh—and refreshing. This new champagne bar just steps from the Tokyo Midtown complex offers a selection of over 100 bottles of bubby and wine. The small-ish space is dimly lit, with a wood counter and comfy low-back bar stools and the drinks illuminated under red lights. To find it, look for the number “0” in the bar’s ground-level window.
Up for some live jazz, pops, bossa nova, samba or chanson from leading Japanese musicians? At Boston Dreams (B1 Roppongi Five Bldg, 5-18-20 Roppongi, Minato-ku; 03-3583-3988), just off Gaien-Higashi Dori, you can enjoy three sets of live music (7:40-11pm) six days a week. Stop by during happy hour (5:30-7:30pm) and pay ¥1,000 for two drinks and popcorn, with additional drinks just ¥500. Entry starts at just ¥3,000, but mention Metropolis and get in for half-price. BJM
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