Sake Bistro W
Kasumigaseki comes alive at this classy drinking den

Photos courtesy of Kasumi Dining

It’s not exactly clear what the “W” in Sake bistro
W stands for, but as we felt a bit wobbly weaving down the road after sampling a selection of the bar’s wares, we’ll assume it has something to do with that.

Only up and running since the opening of the Kasumi Dining complex last October, Sake Bistro W has already attracted a solid clientele, and even on a cold Tuesday night the only free seats were at the bar or under the space-heaters outside.

A fusion of a very upmarket izakaya and a wine bar, W greets visitors with an eye-catching installation—a cascade of water flows over nine tiers of green glass cubes, into a square pool and then over the edge into gratings set into the floor.

Elsewhere, the motif is black tiles, glass panels and heavy wooden crossbeams. A tatami room tucked away in the far corner, hidden behind a door that you have to stoop to get through, has just enough space for six people to be served in complete privacy. Make a reservation if you fancy a night in the nook.

Sake Bistro W stocks not only 20 varieties of sake, but two dozen brands of shochu and five of awamori. Add to that Ebisu beer on tap (¥750), Guinness (¥800), 10-year-old Talisker (¥1,000), sake cocktails—including Le Sake Cassis (¥900) and Samurai Rock (¥900)—plus a smattering of wines and a Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial (¥8,800/bottle), and it’s clear there’s no excuse for not getting just a little tiddly.

In the mood for sampling some nihonshu, we were happy that the different varieties of sake are classified on the menu like fine wines, with super-premium daiginjo termed “Grand Cru,” ginjo described as “Premier Cru,” and the rest listed as “Tradition.”

The capable waitstaff steered us towards the fruity Tomino Houzan (¥750), then to the Banreki (¥1,200), which is sharper and comes in a more generous glass. We also enjoyed a cup of the very rich Kaneyama Awamori (¥2,000), aged 15 years.

The kitchen at this “sake bistro” prepares an interesting lineup of dishes both Japanese and imported. We could have eaten New York-style avocado and shrimp salad (¥1,100) all evening long, but as variety is the spice of life, we felt obliged to try the Alaskan king crab croquettes (¥1,600) and the homemade tsukune (¥1,000)—both of which went well with the fruity Gozanryu (¥1,200) sake off the Grand Cru section.

With just enough room for one more dish, we opted for the Okinawan Soki Soba with pork bones and konbu seaweed (¥1,000)—and were sorely tempted when that other Okinawan staple, goya champuru, was served at a neighbouring table. But we resisted.

The food and drinks at Sake Bistro W are excellent, and the bar has a relaxed and warm atmosphere—but we have to wonder how long it’s going to be before a merry drinker ends up sitting in that cascading water.

1F Tokyo Club Bldg, 3-2-6 Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3501-1811. Open Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat-Sun & hols 11am-10pm. Nearest stn: Toranomon. http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g107806

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