| Bar Review |
By Melissa Feineman
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The Old Imperial Bar
Drink in some history at this venerable star of the city’s nightlife scene
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| Photos by Christine Engelberg |
Given the renovation of
the Marunouchi area, it no longer seems unusual to find a hip bar near the Imperial Palace. But back before the district was a trendy nighttime destination, The Old Imperial was there, faithfully serving customers in its effortlessly sophisticated way. And it’s a safe bet that even after the next hot new neighborhood springs up, it will continue to do the same.
The Old Imperial Bar’s decor pays homage to one of the past incarnations of the hotel. Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and debuting in 1923, the Imperial miraculously survived the Great Kanto Earthquake, which destroyed the city on its opening day. While the old façade is now gone, the bar still offers glimpses of the hotel’s history, with its intricate woodwork and art deco murals.
We noticed that all the waiters and bartenders (and there were many—we were served by at least four staff in the course of one visit) wore smart black three-piece suits, giving them a charming and debonair look. We were also impressed by the seats at the bar counter, each one illuminated by a single spotlight. The not-so-subtle message: You’re the star here.
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Guided to corner seats, which gave us a view of the entire space, we delighted in the resonance between the interior and the details on our table, like the plates and cups that featured geometric art deco details.
The drink menu is a thick, leather-bound affair, with a wide selection ranging from premium whisky to beer (foreign and domestic, starting at ¥945) to fancy cocktails. We opted for two of The Old Imperial’s signature cocktails: the Mt. Fuji and the Imperial 70 (each ¥1,365). Both came in petite and demure glasses, belying the powerful punch packed within. This is definitely the type of place demanding you spend some time delicately sipping your drinks and admiring the craftsmanship that went into concocting them.
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The food menu consists mainly of light fare, with a selection of club sandwiches (starting at ¥1,575), finger food like vegetable sticks (¥1,260) and fruit plates (¥1,575). We admired the radish that had been carved to resemble a chrysanthemum—while the overall menu and ambience have a decidedly Western slant, small details like this remind you that you could only be in Japan.
The Old Imperial’s atmosphere is, needless to say, one of refined elegance, where guests feel comfortable and taken care of without being fawned over. For a taste of Tokyo’s past, this is one bar that can’t be beat.
Mezzanine Floor, Imperial Hotel, 1-1-1 Uchisaiwai, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3539-8088. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. Nearest stn: Hibiya, exit A13. www.imperialhotel.co.jp
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The title of “Shot King” is up for grabs. Propaganda (2F Yua Roppongi Bldg, 3-14-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku; 03-3423-0988; www.propaganda-tokyo.com), famous for its shooters and screwdrivers made from fresh-squeezed OJ, recently announced a competition for who can purchase—not drink—the most shots each month. The end-of-year winner will be given their very own permanent throne at the bar, nameplate and all.
Feeling blue? The staff of Shiro Usagi (3F No. 90 Tokyo Bldg, 3-5-3 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; 03-3362-2316) are contractually obligated to cheer you up. Or so says their slogan of “nadeshiko izakaya.” Nadeshiko Yamato is the name given to the “ideal” Japanese woman—submissive, reserved, patriotic. While we find this a tad chauvinistic, the notion that the waiters and waitresses are paid to be bubbly and energetic doesn’t sound half-bad. Because Shiro Usagi (“white rabbit”) is in the student haven of ’Baba, the prices are kept low—think ¥1,500 for two hours of bottomless booze. If that doesn’t put a smile on your face, we don’t know what will.
Lastly—and we hesitate to share this one—fans of Mexican food and tequila-fuelled good times should know that Junkadelic (4-10-4 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; 03-5725-5020; www.junkadelic.jp) is now an even better place to get loaded. The owner, Arima-san, just returned from a south-of-the-border sojourn, and managed to smuggle back a bunch of super rare bottles of tequila. Junkadelic already offered a killer lineup of both tequila and mescal, but agave addicts now have a few more reasons to visit this mainstay of the Tokyo dining and drinking scene. BJM
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