| Restaurant Review |
By Jonathan Yaffe
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Sennin Dou Shin
Teach your taste buds to dance at this Akihabara izakaya
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| Photos courtesy of Pixy |
The excitement that builds up every time I make
a reservation at an unfamiliar restaurant was destroyed recently by whoever answered the phone at Sennin Dou Shin. “No! No! No!” they said. “Japanese only!” I had asked for a table in my best nihongo, which is admittedly not perfect but is understandable even by my curmudgeonly, half-deaf landlord. After hanging up, I had a Japanese friend call back, only to be asked five times whether he was positive I’d be bringing Japanese people to dinner.
So imagine my surprise when, upon our arrival at Sennin Dou Shin, my date and I were offered an English menu. And not just any menu—the laminated, bilingual food list had pictures and exactly paralleled its Japanese equivalent.
Sennin Dou Shin, a Kyoto-style izakaya, is filled with tofu dishes and fusion takes on traditional favorites. We started with the recommended “special” pork with tofu (¥750), which the restaurant claims to only make ten of per day, but I suspect that may be a marketing ploy. The thin layered pork wrapped around daikon and onion had been marinating in a sweet soy sauce for hours, though was still slightly rare and succulent on the inside. The meat came snuggled in a block of large, firm tofu that was simmered in the same rich sauce. This upscale version of nikujaga was definitely the highlight of the evening’s taste-bud excursion.
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While we could easily have ordered another nine
of these dishes, that would have made for a fairly monotonous review, so we did our best to diversify. The gindara saikyo yaki (grilled cod with miso, ¥750) was perfect—soft and flaky, with layers soaked in mild miso that peeled off like butter.
As our tongues danced in our mouths, our eyes darted around Sennin Dou Shin’s attractive interior. Multicolored wood slats interlaced at various angles
and soft lighting create a relaxed atmosphere. The effect is like a modernist mountain lodge, punctuated with spotlights shining straight down on each table—a welcome touch, as it enabled us to enjoy looking at
all our wonderfully presented food. The sashimi plate (¥1,680), for instance, came on a black ceramic dish with perfectly sliced scallops and otoro, and was covered in
a thin white mist from the dry ice underneath.
We accompanied our food with a few glasses of shochu and plum wine. The menu described Tominohouzan (¥550) as “popular with the ladies,” while the wonderful Bakudan Hanatare (¥900) had a “thick strong character.” You are what you drink, right?
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Though this may have been a good time to stop, we followed the lead of the clientele—mainly businessmen after work, lively though not drunkenly obnoxious—and ordered more. The thinly sliced beef in spicy sesame-pepper sauce (¥1,200) was just what we were hoping for—perfectly seared, the marbleized, silky beef had a spicy sauce that complemented rather than overwhelmed.
Few people think of the technology-laden, maid café-filled Akihabara as a culinary hotspot (with just cause), but izakaya like Sennin Dou Shin are the exception. Next time you find yourself buying manga at dinnertime, have a Japanese friend make you a reservation, and let your taste buds be their own action figures at this slow-paced culinary fortress.
3F Atre Akihabara, 1-9 Kanda-Hanaokacho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3255-1010. Open daily 11am-11:30pm. Nearest stn: Akihabara.
Fast becoming the in-spot of Hibiya is The Lobby at the new Peninsula hotel. The all-day-dining restaurant is especially popular for afternoon tea (from 2:30pm), when it serves the Peninsula’s increasingly famous scones. Since the hotel opened on September 1, long lines have been a common sight in the foyer because The Lobby doesn’t take reservations. But never mind—you can start the day early with one of three breakfast courses, ranging from ¥2,800 to ¥3,800. The all-day menu (lunch and dinner) includes wood-smoked salmon with crispy vegetables, braised duck confit, numerous salads, the traditional Peninsula club sandwich, herb-roasted chicken, housemade pasta, braised organic pork, sautéed prawns and many other choices, mostly priced from ¥2,000 to ¥3,600 (except for the ¥5,500 Kobe beef steak sandwich). For afternoon tea, there are à la carte selections as well as two sets—Classic (¥3,200) and Champagne (¥6,400). Besides the scones, which are served with clotted cream and jam, you can try finger sandwiches (including, of course, cucumber), tarts, teacakes, French pastries, truffles, chocolate mousse and a daily cake selection, all accompanied by the hotel’s premium tea and live music to provide the right ambience. If you’re alone, the friendly staff may even offer you a magazine to read. By the way, if all those sweets don’t fill you up or if you can’t get a table, head down to the Peninsula Boutique & Café in the basement and try some lamingtons, one of Australia’s favorite cakes. In all of Tokyo, they are only available at the Peninsula, thanks to chef Shigeru Nojima.
The Peninsula Tokyo, 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-6270-2888. Open daily 6:30-11am, 11:30am-2:30pm, 2:30-5pm (afternoon tea) and 6-10pm. Also open for drinks Sun-Thu 10pm-midnight and Fri-Sat 10pm-1am. Nearest stn: Hibiya. http://tokyo.peninsula.com CB |
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