| Bar Review |
By Max Woodworth
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Elements Bar
Take the edge off after a day of wheeling and dealing at this chic Roppongi bar
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| Photos courtesy of United Dining |
As we walked across the courtyard of the Toranomon Tower Residence, the thick wood door to Elements was already being opened by its deep-bowing staff. Before even stepping through the door, then, Elements had created the impression that we were distinguished guests arriving fashionably late at a soiree.
Clearly, this is not somewhere to slake a quotidian thirst and catch up on neighborhood gossip. Entering is like walking into the lobby of a boutique hotel, the type that politely but firmly declines to be listed in mass-market tour guides.
Happy to indulge the illusion of being monied and hip, we followed our impeccably dressed server to one of seven tables and began leafing through the thick, leather-bound drink menu. Elements Bar offers a staggering selection of liquor, all at prices that rarely top ¥1,500, so perusing the extensive list from cover to cover with the room’s dim lighting took some time. The staff seemed to appreciate this and retreated behind the bar to allow my partner and I to settle into our leather and steel chairs and to contemplate our many options, while noshing lazily on the complimentary cashews and pistachios and taking in the bar’s minimalist aesthetic.
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Our selections finally made and the staff summoned, round one consisted of one strawberry daiquiri (¥1,200) and a 12-year Yamazaki whisky (¥1,200), both of which arrived quickly and in glasses to match the razor-sharp decor. The Yamazaki was a pleasant start, but the daiquiri packed enough punch to almost deliver a first round knockout on my partner, who pointed out that people who order daiquiris aren’t actually looking for a strong drink. Depending on how long one plans to stay at Elements, the daiquiri may or may not be a good choice.
Applying the brakes, then, for round two, we ordered a Baird India Pale Ale (¥900), brewed in Shizuoka, and a crème de menthe-based grasshopper (¥900), which tasted everything like peppermint ice cream heaven. The IPA was the perfect complement to our plate of carpaccio and salami served with cornichon pickles and onions, an appetizer as delicious as it was pricey (¥2,100). We lingered over our drinks and food and capped the night with a Scotch-based rusty nail (¥1,000), perhaps not the most refreshing summer drink, but nonetheless exquisite in the deft hands of the dapper barman.
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Elements is unabashedly high on concept and design, but for all the attention paid to the up-to-the-minute décor, the music seemed a jarring mismatch. Though the soft jazz was kept low to allow private discussion across the tables or at the 10-stool bar, we couldn’t help but notice. The business-class clientele appeared unfazed, however—their concentration perhaps focused on the day’s hedge fund movements.
We feared the music might drive us from the bar, but with a couple drinks and an eventual change of CD we could finally fool ourselves into feeling at home. Top-shelf drinks, it would appear, are perfect for fueling just that kind of fantasy. We left wanting more.
1F Toranomon Towers Residence, 4-1-34 Toranomon, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5733-0222. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-midnight, closed on Sun & hols. Nearest stn: Kamiyacho, exit 4B, or Roppongi-Itchome. www.elements-restaurant.com
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The title of “Shot King” is up for grabs. Propaganda (2F Yua Roppongi Bldg, 3-14-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku; 03-3423-0988; www.propaganda-tokyo.com), famous for its shooters and screwdrivers made from fresh-squeezed OJ, recently announced a competition for who can purchase—not drink—the most shots each month. The end-of-year winner will be given their very own permanent throne at the bar, nameplate and all.
Feeling blue? The staff of Shiro Usagi (3F No. 90 Tokyo Bldg, 3-5-3 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; 03-3362-2316) are contractually obligated to cheer you up. Or so says their slogan of “nadeshiko izakaya.” Nadeshiko Yamato is the name given to the “ideal” Japanese woman—submissive, reserved, patriotic. While we find this a tad chauvinistic, the notion that the waiters and waitresses are paid to be bubbly and energetic doesn’t sound half-bad. Because Shiro Usagi (“white rabbit”) is in the student haven of ’Baba, the prices are kept low—think ¥1,500 for two hours of bottomless booze. If that doesn’t put a smile on your face, we don’t know what will.
Lastly—and we hesitate to share this one—fans of Mexican food and tequila-fuelled good times should know that Junkadelic (4-10-4 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; 03-5725-5020; www.junkadelic.jp) is now an even better place to get loaded. The owner, Arima-san, just returned from a south-of-the-border sojourn, and managed to smuggle back a bunch of super rare bottles of tequila. Junkadelic already offered a killer lineup of both tequila and mescal, but agave addicts now have a few more reasons to visit this mainstay of the Tokyo dining and drinking scene. BJM
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