Minsk
Head to Azabudai for some Belarus Home Cooking

Photo courtesy of Minsk

Seventeen years ago, on July 27, 1990, Belarus regained its sovereignty from the collapsed Soviet Union. We ought to celebrate this fortuitous event because without it, we wouldn’t have the delicious home-style cooking of Minsk with us in Tokyo. Tucked away under the shadow of the Shuto Expressway near the Izumi Garden Tower building, this warm, rustic place has, for the last five years, been serving up authentic Belarusian cuisine and atmosphere.

With its red brick and pine accents, wooden matryoshka dolls and birch-wood knickknacks, the dining room feels like a country house in the pine forests of the Oshmyany Uplands. There is also seating at the long counter where you can peruse the extensive collection of vodka.

The entire staff of Minsk are female. The cook, Tatyana Kazak is, of course, from Belarus, as is the manager, Victoria Barysiyuk. The food, Victoria explained, is meant to be country-style, not fancy, with the feeling that you are eating at the home of a friend. And your friend is a helluva cook.

Potatoes reign supreme in Belarus—they are loved to such an extent they’re celebrated in songs, dances and even poetry. You’ll be singing the praises of this vegetable once you taste the draniki, potato pancakes filled with pork (¥1,600), or the selyodka pod shuboi, a herring and beetroot salad (¥1,260).

I’ve eaten at Minsk three times, and everything I’ve had has been a winner: the golubsty, rolled cabbage (¥1,365), is exemplary. Like hopeful danseuses who flock to the stage to watch a prima ballerina assoluta, roll cabbages across Tokyo should make the pilgrimage to Minsk to discover what they should aspire to become. (Sorry, the place has got me spouting poetic, and the dish doesn’t even have a potato in it.)

To start your meal, you’ll have to order, of course, the borscht (¥735), the tomato marinated with paprika (¥735), the salmon croquettes with dill and sour cream (¥1,050), and a bottle of Baltika Number 3 beer. Though not strictly a beer from Belarus, this Russian lager suits Minsk’s hearty food perfectly.

Wine is also available. A glass of Old Tblisi white or red can be had for ¥630. If you are eager to explore the poetic depths of your soul, try some vodka. The best night for this would be Wednesday, when an electric organ is set up in the corner, and you’ll be treated to live music—sad, beautiful ballads and songs from Belarus.

1-4-2 Azabudai, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3586-6600. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm and 5-11pm, Sat-Sun and hols 5-11pm. Menu in English. www.minsk.tokyo.walkerplus.com

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