Mother’s Ruin
Escape to an Enchanted Forest beneath the dense shopping streets of Shimokitazawa

Photos Courtesy of Mothership

As with everything in Shimokitazawa, the small surprises are never where you’d expect them to be. Just beyond the vibrant perimeter of Shimokita’s south side, with its arterial roads and side streets packed with students and shoppers, are a series of small signs in front of an unassuming building that announces the basement bar Mother’s Ruin. Even if you were looking for it, you might miss it.

At the bottom of the staircase is a broad wooden door with a frosted glass spy hole. On the other side is a massive, intricately designed, copper lizard suspended from the ceiling. Close to seven meters in length and hanging over the expanse of the bar with two watchful red eyes, it instantly establishes the “enchanted Aztec forest” feel of the space.

Two menus arrive at every table, one an extensive drinks list with seasonal recommendations, including imported beers like Negra Modelo, Corona and Red Stripe (¥680-¥735). There are also three pages of cocktails, shochu, sake, wine, beer, Chinese fruit liquor, as well as soft drinks, juice and coffee. Most selections cost ¥580-¥840, and the welcome lack of a table charge helps keep the cost down.

We decided on Tantakatan (¥630), a shochu made with shiso, and mojitos (¥840), a warm weather favorite. With exposed brick walls, three wooden booths that seat five or six people, a long communal banquet table and a small counter space, the room feels at once breathable and intimate. Uniquely crafted light fixtures give off the appearance of light bleeding through the trees. In another bar, similar design choices might feel kitschy or overbearing, but here there is something moody and relaxing in their artfulness.

The food menu is distinctively international, with Korean, Indonesian, Vietnamese and Middle Eastern creations accompanying more traditional Japanese fare. We began with the “Ruin Special” Korean pancakes (¥680) and the “Arabian-style” chicken (¥735). Portions were healthy and attractively presented. The chijimi were lightly fried and filled with shredded carrots and other thick pieces of veggies, finished with a mixture of soy sauce and sesame oil, while the chicken, a highlight of the evening, was flavorful and lightly spiced, served with greens and a shy pat of mayonnaise.

The crowd was chummy, many clearly regulars, all pledging allegiance to the sign above the door reading “No War.” The beaming, hardworking staff behind the bar never drifted too far from our attention and were knowing and helpful with recommendations. We ordered another round of drinks, toasted the guardian lizard, and slowly passed the hours.

In Shimokitazawa, there is an ongoing debate over the construction of a roadway that many fear will change the dynamic of the town. Here’s hoping places like Mother’s Ruin never change.

B1 NF Bldg, 2-2-7 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku. Tel: 03-3412-5318. Open Mon-Fri 6pm-2am, Sat-Sun 6pm-4am. Drink menu in Japanese only, food menu in English and Japanese. Nearest stn: Shimokitazawa (south exit). www.rock-mother.com

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