| Bar Review |
By Melissa Feineman
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Standing
Bar Joe
Prepare to be surprised by this Nishi-Azabu tachinomiya
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| Photos Courtesy of Standing Bar Joe |
If you’re a lover of the tachinomiya, or standing bar, you are likely already acquainted with its advantages (cheap booze, down-home cooking, casual atmosphere) and disadvantages (no place to rest your weary feet). If you’re a pavement-pounding salaryman, shopper or even a soft-footed student, this could pose a podiatric problem. If, on the other hand, you are willing to sacrifice comfort in the name of affordable libations, then look no further than Nishi-Azabu crossing, to Standing Bar Joe.
When you first step into Joe, you pick up on the relaxed and welcoming vibe. The decorations are minimalist, but still manage to set the mood. Traditional Japanese lanterns bounce light and shadows off the exposed beams and whitewashed walls, and a mini shrine in the corner grabs your attention for a moment before you notice the black-and-white photos of postwar Lebanon. Yet despite these serious touches, Joe is, above all, a place to leave your quotidian cares at the door.
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It has to be said that Standing Bar Joe is a place of contradictions. There’s the foreign-sounding name, but nary a Westerner in sight behind the bar. Then there’s humble okaasan-style cooking that’s presented in fashionable surroundings. The tachinomiya atmosphere
is one of relaxation, yet you have to pay by the round, which means you have to confront the contents (or lack thereof) of your wallet a little too regularly. On the upside, most drinks are in the ¥500 range, which put a smile on our faces. All of these contradictions were eclipsed by the unlikely music selection, which, on a recent Friday night, began with Kenny G, moved on to Phil Collins, and somehow ended up at “Eye of the Tiger.”
Although we couldn’t help feeling like they had accidentally set the radio dial to “’80s light rock,” we decided to focus on the menu. The beverage selection
is largely domestic, featuring a small assortment of beer, shochu and sake.
What really caught our attention, though, was the Japanese rum (we blame Johnny Depp). Having never sampled (or even heard of) such a drink, we asked the bartender for guidance. He helpfully explained that the Rurikaseru variety did not have an overpowering taste (unlike the sharp Cor Cor, ¥500), and was probably the best choice for the uninitiated. We opted for a Rurikaseru & Coke (¥500), and found it strong enough to put a smile on even Jack Sparrow’s face.
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Next we decided to sample sugarcane-based shochu. Do not be fooled, as we were, by the word “sugar” in the name. The variety we selected, Hinoryoasahi mixed with water (¥500), was not sweet at all, but had a savory celery aftertaste.
The food menu is based on simple home-style dishes like chirashi sushi with anago, tobiko and shredded egg, oden and tako kyuri. The menu changes frequently, but most dishes are light, healthy, and in the ¥300-¥600 range.
While the experience may have been improved by ditching the Kenny G, the cheap drinks, authentic cooking and chilled vibes make Standing Bar Joe an excellent choice. Don’t forget your comfortable shoes.
4-1-15 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3400-7797. Open daily 6pm-6am. Nearest stn: Roppongi or Hiroo. www.grace.fm/joe
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The title of “Shot King” is up for grabs. Propaganda (2F Yua Roppongi Bldg, 3-14-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku; 03-3423-0988; www.propaganda-tokyo.com), famous for its shooters and screwdrivers made from fresh-squeezed OJ, recently announced a competition for who can purchase—not drink—the most shots each month. The end-of-year winner will be given their very own permanent throne at the bar, nameplate and all.
Feeling blue? The staff of Shiro Usagi (3F No. 90 Tokyo Bldg, 3-5-3 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; 03-3362-2316) are contractually obligated to cheer you up. Or so says their slogan of “nadeshiko izakaya.” Nadeshiko Yamato is the name given to the “ideal” Japanese woman—submissive, reserved, patriotic. While we find this a tad chauvinistic, the notion that the waiters and waitresses are paid to be bubbly and energetic doesn’t sound half-bad. Because Shiro Usagi (“white rabbit”) is in the student haven of ’Baba, the prices are kept low—think ¥1,500 for two hours of bottomless booze. If that doesn’t put a smile on your face, we don’t know what will.
Lastly—and we hesitate to share this one—fans of Mexican food and tequila-fuelled good times should know that Junkadelic (4-10-4 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; 03-5725-5020; www.junkadelic.jp) is now an even better place to get loaded. The owner, Arima-san, just returned from a south-of-the-border sojourn, and managed to smuggle back a bunch of super rare bottles of tequila. Junkadelic already offered a killer lineup of both tequila and mescal, but agave addicts now have a few more reasons to visit this mainstay of the Tokyo dining and drinking scene. BJM
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