|
|
| Travel |
By Yusuke Takahashi
|
Little Edo
Ancient Tokyo comes alive in
the Chiba village of Sawara
 |
| Photos by Jon Cunningham |
Living in the biggest city in the world, we tend to think
that Tokyo has everything we need. That’s why we rarely feel the urge to head to Chiba for anything other than a day at Disney or to jet off to a tropical vacation from Narita Airport. Yet a recent trip to the town of Sawara completely changed our perspective. We were totally mesmerized by this small but very foreigner-friendly village, located in Katori City in the northeast part of the prefecture. Just an hour-and-a-half drive from the heart of Tokyo, we found something that we never even knew we were missing.
As a port town on the Tone River, Sawara enjoyed prosperous days in the Edo era, when it was owned and governed by the Tokugawa Shogunate. Although new modes of public transportation spelled the end of Sawara as a commercial center during the Meiji Restoration, the town is now known as “Little Edo” for its well-preserved remnants of a bygone era, including several machiya-style townhouses built well over a century ago.
About 15 minutes on foot from JR Sawara station towards the Ono River, visitors can explore the oldest part of the city. The best way to get around is to just walk along the river—or, when the weather permits, a boat ride on the small tributary is a nice way to take yourself back to the 19th century. Most of the townhouses are open to the public, thanks to a project run by the Machigurumi Museum, a community organization founded to showcase Sawara’s history and culture. In the city center stands a Renaissance-style brick building called the Mitsubishi-kan, which was built in 1914 as a bank but now houses the Sawara Visitors Center, where English-speaking volunteer guides offer information about the history and sightseeing attractions.
 |
Sawara is a popular tourist destination year-round, but the best times to visit are July and October, when the city’s famous festivals are held. Sawara Matsuri is one of the biggest celebrations in the Kanto area, and is officially recognized as a Cultural Heritage site.
The festival was originally created to fend off the raging gods of pestilence, and still retains its chaotic nature. Ten elaborately constructed mikoshi floats, made by craftsmen in the late Edo and Meiji eras and representing each district in the town, are paraded around the city to the tunes of a traditional orchestra group. Each float carries huge 5m-tall dolls representing gods and heroes from Japanese mythology.
 |
During a visit to the festival last fall, we were captivated by the vigor and energy of the matsuri participants. The highlight of the parade is when mikoshi carriers make a nonoji turn, which traces a Japanese hiragana character for “no” on the ground. The faster and smoother they can make the turn, the better—which makes for spirited competition and entertaining viewing.
One friendly spectator, born and raised in Sawara, told us that the matsuri was once a raging drunken festival and totally out of control,
but now represents the unity of the community and the appreciation for traditional culture. We witnessed many happy faces chugging locally distilled sake as if it was water. We were intimidated at first by the inebriated townsfolk, but after downing a couple shots of the local firewater, we ourselves became part of the feel-good scenery.
 |
A short getaway to Sawara is highly recommended for both visitors and long-term Japan residents. The feeling of traditional culture, as preserved by both the local government and the entire Sawara community, is palpable. Unlike Kyoto and Kamakura, Sawara hasn’t completely given itself over as a commercial tourist spot. Instead, it boasts a true Edo spirit that many Tokyoites have forgotten—or never even knew about.
Address Book
Kittei (reservations required): 789-2 Sawara-i, Katori-shi, Chiba. Tel: 0478-55-0350. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9pm. www.kittei.co.jp
Moo-Jan: 3403-2 Sawara-i, Katori-shi, Chiba. Tel: 0478-52-2466. Open Wed-Mon 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9pm.
Café Shieto: 3382-3 Sawara-i, Katori-shi, Chiba. Tel: 0478-55-8808. Open Thu-Tue 11am-6pm. www.shuhari.co.jp/shieto
Sawara can be easily reached from Tokyo by train (90min, ¥1,880), or by Keisei Bus (www.keiseibus.co.jp) from Tokyo station’s Yaesu exit terminal (80min, ¥1,700). For a nice French lunch while exploring the historic district, make your way to Moo-Jan, a popular machiya converted into a restaurant. Café Shieto in the same area is recommended for its herbal teas and homemade sweets. Our favorite spot in the city is Kittei, a fusion restaurant run by a chef trained in Ginza. Overlooking a gorgeous Japanese garden, Kittei offers exquisite cuisines and locally brewed spirits that awed even picky Tokyo foodies like us. For more information about Sawara in English, check out the Sawara Chamber of Commerce & Industry website (www.sawara-cci.or.jp). This year’s Summer Sawara Festival will be held July 13-15, while the fall festival takes place October 12-14 (www.city.katori.lg.jp).
|
HIS Experience Japan is offering tourists and residents of Japan a chance to experience “real Japanese culture,” in addition to the usual tourist spots. The company has nearly a dozen programs that allow participants to learn directly from professionals. Activities include sushi-making, yuzen silk-dying, calligraphy, karate and ninja lessons, taiko drumming and lantern-making, among others. Guides who speak English, Chinese, Korean and Spanish are available, and reservations can be made online at www.j-experience.com. Further info is available in English by calling 03-5328-4030 or emailing info-en@j-experience.com.
From August 26 through September 13 (excluding September 7-9), Tokyo Dome Hotel is offering a late summer accommodation promotion, in which rooms will be discounted by up to 45 percent. During the period, the rate is ¥14,000 for a single room, ¥18,500 for a twin or double and ¥21,000 for a triple. Fifty rooms will be available per day. A variety of events are being held at Tokyo Dome City during this period, including the 78th Intercity Baseball Tournament (August 24-September 4) and the popular children’s program The Jukensentai Geki Ranger Show will be performing on stage at Sky Theater until September 2. For reservations, call 03-5805-2222 or visit www.tokyodome-hotels.co.jp. CB
|
Got something to say about this article? Send a letter to the editor at letters@metropolis.co.jp.
Listen to the Metropolis Podcast, the coolest guide to what goes on this week in Tokyo.
Looking for international friends? Check Japan, Inc. Friends now - it's 100% free!
|
|
|
