Manuel Casa de Fado
Acquaint yourself with Portuguese cooking in the heart of Tokyo

Courtesy of Manuel Casa de Fado

Portugal has given much to Japan: words like pan (bread), kappa (raincoat) and juban (underwear); food like tempura and castella cake; and, most importantly of all, it has given us Manuel Casa de Fado.

Manuel’s “House of Fado” is the first restaurant in Tokyo to offer real Portuguese food with live performances of the mournful, bluesy music of fado. Portuguese cuisine is often mistakenly considered an offshoot of Spanish cooking, but it has a distinct pedigree stemming back hundreds of years, with influences from Arabia, Africa, and Brazil.

The cuisine is diverse, with different traditions in the mountains and along the coasts. Manuel’s extensive à la carte menu covers many of the classic dishes, such as Fumado de Peixe Seco, smoked rock fish with tomato and mushrooms (¥1,490), Frango na Púcara, chicken casserole in a large earthenware pot (¥2,460), and Carne de Porco com Mariscos, an unusual but delectable combination of pork and seafood (¥2,200).

One of Portugal’s favorite foods is bacalhau, salted cod, which is served up across the country in hundreds of ways. Manuel offers several variations, such as the appetizer Pastéis de Bacalhau (codfish rolls, ¥750); a delightful salad, Espinheta de Bacalhau com Laranja (shredded codfish with fresh orange, ¥960); and the classic Bacalhau à Brás (codfish with scrambled eggs and potatoes ¥1,680). Another favorite is Caldo Verde, green soup made from potato, onion, olive oil, green cabbage and a slice of chorizo (¥650).

The Portuguese love their poets. One 19th-century poet in particular, Raimundo António de Bulhão Pato, is honored every time someone orders Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato (¥1,380). This combination of clams, garlic and coriander is perfect with a glass of the crisp, white Alvarinho Muros Antigos (¥1,260).
Anyone who thinks Portuguese wine means an oddly-shaped bottle of Mateus will surely be converted after tasting any of the some 200 varieties specially imported by Manuel. Many are available by the glass, like the fragrant, dry Branco da Gaivosa (¥1,260) or the luscious red, Dom Rafael (¥1260). Most bottles are priced in the affordable ¥4,000-¥7,000 range.

The dining room is spacious with a warm ambience. Two huge blue-and-white tile murals set the mood with depictions of the cities of Porto and Lisbon. The unusually high ceilings are perfect for the fado performances that happen about once a month.

Fado is the music of sadness, disappointment and longing, the soul music of Portugal. But there is no sadness at Manuel. The food here is joyous—simple and earthy, prepared with care, and served on thick, rustic plates and bowls. The staff have all been to Portugal and their enthusiasm shows.
The desserts are as interesting as anything else on the menu: Arroz Doce, rice pudding with lemon and cinnamon (¥650); a very refreshing Salada de Frutas, fresh fruit with port wine sauce (¥840); or the quaintly-named castella, Pão de Ló de Alfeizerão, listed as “The original Sponge-cake recipe from the small town” (¥750).

With four visits so far, I’m still eating my way through the menu. The ¥1,200 daily lunch special, by the way, is a steal.

B1F, 11-7 Rokubancho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-5276-2432. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-3pm and 6-11pm, closed Sun. English menu available. www.pjgroup.jp/manuel

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