Mominoki House
After 31 years, this macro-biotic Harajuku landmark is still going strong

Spring is the season of love, of fresh fruits and veggies, and it’s also the time to celebrate the anniversary of one of Tokyo’s most enduring restaurants. Harajuku’s Mominoki House, which The New York Times called “in a category by itself,” goes back to the basics of the Japanese culinary tradition, creating with simple ingredients a cuisine that is timeless—not to mention supremely healthy and, more often than not, absolutely delicious.

We recently stopped by, on an invitation from founding chef Eiichiro Yamada, for a buffet-style dinner celebrating the restaurant’s 31 years of business. As we approached the entrance, we spied a few people huddled around a tray of fresh shiitake mushrooms and hearty blocks of tofu, next to a tall barbecue grill—all of which was only slightly out of place in the middle of Ura-Hara, the name given to the trendy backstreets of the design-savvy shopping district.

After entering and walking down stairs past boxes of chilled organic beer and wine, we found a seat at a six-person table on the top part of a split-level dining area. Over the course of the night, as
the wine, then beer, and finally tequila shots flowed, we found ourselves engaged in a body-contorting game of musical chairs.

But the food was worth it. We started with a raw spinach salad and a serving of edona greens with a sesame dressing (normally ¥880). Though longtime residents of Tokyo, we had never heard of this locally produced, organic hybrid of komatsuna, a Japanese mustard spinach. Next, we tried an excellent croquette with a piping hot potato and sesame filling—before moseying back outside to sample the grilled goodies. We were offered several of the giant, whole shiitake mushrooms and told to add salt or just to enjoy them plain. We found even the seasoned version a bit too raw, so we dipped them in the ginger-soy dressing meant for the tofu, and that did the trick. The tofu, by the way, was excellent, with its thick skin and hearty, snow-white meat. (These items are not among the regular entrées, which range from ¥480 for gluten spring rolls, to ¥4,800 for venison.)

When we made our way back to our table, we were treated to a helping of the best damned cabbage we’ve ever had. Its rich taste was not thanks to any oil, sauce or topping; rather, the wooden steamer had allowed the minerals and natural flavors to escape, offering us lucky diners the chance to experience what food must have tasted like before scientists started tinkering with it.

This last point is a large part of what the macrobiotic philosophy is all about: a return to simple, natural foods, as much as possible removed from the processing of the modern food industry. You can taste it in the cabbage. And you can be sure your body knows the difference.

2-18-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3405-9144. Open daily 11am-11pm (LO 10:30pm). Nearest stn: Harajuku or Meiji-jingumae. www2.odn.ne.jp/mominoki_house

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