Trader Vic’s
Get a taste of paradise at this renowned Akasaka hotel bar

Courtesy of The New Otani

When customers at Victor J. Bergeron’s tropical-themed bar in Northern California couldn’t quite afford their tab, the proprietor was flexible. A testament to his moniker, “Trader Vic,” he would often barter with his clientele: goods and services in exchange for victuals and booze. This was six decades ago. There are now 23 branches of his namesake bar throughout the world—with seven more slated to open this year. In operation since 1974, the Tokyo branch is considered one of the franchise’s finest.

For starters, the décor could hardly be called subtle. Besides giant potted plants and Polynesian art, there’s a stuffed puffer fish and an entire boat suspended from the woven bamboo and cane ceiling.

On our visit we were celebrating a family reunion, so we chose to sit in the festive bar area. Larry, the manager of 18 years, joined us at our table, as he often does with guests—he doesn’t like the word “customers.”

It would be easy, here, to launch into a restaurant review, as the food certainly warrants a column all its own. We started with the Okada salad (¥1,838), a simple combination of avocado, greens and tomatoes, tossed in a vinaigrette, before continuing to the “Cho Cho” flank steak (¥2,100). The beef was brought with an open flame—perfect for gourmands who enjoy playing with their food. The ensuing Menehune Tidbits plate (¥2,625) included spare ribs, chashu barbecue pork, crispy prawns and crab Rangoon wontons with cream cheese. We also tried two of the house specialties. The Perfect Burger (¥3,150), with all the fixings and golden fries (“They’re even good cold!” says Larry), is neither cheap nor modest, yet may be the most aptly described item on the menu. Finally, the Calcutta curry (¥3,675) impressed us with its seven accompanying condiments, including shredded coconut and mango chutney. We’ll resist the urge to go into too much detail; suffice to say, each dish was impeccably prepared and actually fun to eat—but not nearly as much fun as the drinks.

Trader Vic took pride in his cocktails. Even those who have never stepped foot in one of his establishments have probably tasted one of his original drinks, like the legendary Mai Tai (¥1,996). We were presented with nearly 100 options, and these are the real McCoy, with fresh fruit and top-shelf liquor. Being fans of the classic gin and tonic, we loved its mature cousin the Samoan Fog Cutter (¥1,943), a combination of gin, rum, sherry and lemon, served in a ceramic stein bedecked with topless dancers. Next was the Peach Tree Punch (¥1,628), a blend of peach and light rum with a touch of coconut, and after came the Pino Pepe (¥2,100), served in a carved-out pineapple. We also tried a communal Scorpion (¥4,568), a knock-your-socks-off rum number, garnished with a fresh African lily.

The excellent presentation is hardly limited to the drinks: from the multiple rounds of oshibori served in seashells to the soothing Hawaiian music, Trader Vic’s overlooks no detail in its effort to transport patrons to the South Pacific. You probably can’t trade your watch for a night out at the outlet in The New Otani, but Bergeron’s vision of a great bar has endured, halfway around the world from where it all started.

4F The New Otani Hotel, 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3265-4707. Open daily 11:30am-1am (lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, dinner 5-10pm). 10% service charge. English menu available. www.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/restaurant/vics

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