Fuunji
In Kabukicho, you can’t spell Fuunji without “Fun”

Photos Courtesy of Zokei Syudan

In English, Fuunji translates to “lucky adventurer,” but this adventuring bar-hopper was not lucky enough to get a table on a Saturday night without a wait.

Not that there weren’t other options. Located about five minutes from Shinjuku station’s west exit, Fuunji is surrounded by places to hop on the good foot and do the bad thing. The ladies of our group, in fact, were offered free admission to a strip club as we waited by the curb. Regrettably, we had to decline.

After a short while, we were seated at a private tatami room in the back. A large metal sculpture of an eye hung above the table. Light-gauge rebar, attached to the ceiling, stretched away from the eye like eyelashes overgrown beyond all reason. A fog of nicotine hung in the air, and the place was crowded with people talking loudly, cutting loose on a Shinjuku Saturday night. At the bar, every stool was filled. Warm wood tones and arching walls gave the place a cozy feel.

The din was pleasant and cheerful, but unfortunately not strong enough to overcome the soft-core rap music pumping out of the speakers near our table. As described by a member of our party, “I feel like I should be at a club or something. I think they traded records for the night.”

We started with the standards—beers, gins and tonic—and perused the menu. With just one brand of sake (Kikuhime, ¥980) and one draft beer (Ebisu, ¥680), Fuunji isn’t the place to go for variety. Standard cocktails run about ¥700, and shochu costs about the same. You can also choose red or white house wine (¥520), plum wine (Aroma, ¥600 and Bunzoo, ¥700) or Wild Turkey (¥800).

Fuunji’s food menu is basic izakaya fare. Deep-fried kushiage skewers will set you back about ¥1,200. Choose from morsels of meat, vegetables, seafood or the somewhat ominous “chef’s choice.” Appetizers run between ¥500 and ¥680, and salads go for around ¥800.

Fuunji also offers a decidedly uninspired “can cooking” menu featuring canned tuna, squid, mackerel and whale. While it did appeal to our palates’ pioneering sensibilities, we opted for the safer bet of chicken and vegetable kushiage, smothered in a tangy Bulldog sauce. We also enjoyed the Caesar salad (¥800), served in a fried tortilla shell.

As the night wore on, Fuunji’s buzz grew, which was a welcome development, as it began to drown out the music. Though my notes become a little sketchy from around this point, it would appear someone in our group began ordering “mystery drinks,” including one that was an electric blue color. Shortly after, we were stumbling out the doors and heading toward the station.

Not only are adventurers lucky to snag a table at Fuunji on Saturday night, but lucky, too, are the ones who catch their last train. In spite of the “can cooking” menu and the bad music, Fuunji has a certain panache for keeping customers entertained. The place was still packed when we left.

3F Hashimoto Bldg, 1-6-6 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-5287-6780. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-5am, Sun 5-11:30pm. English menu available. Nearest stn: Shinjuku. www.zokei-syudan.co.jp/works/2001/Fuunji/Fuunji.html

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