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Hida Takayama
For personal trips gentle to the soul, seek out the old-time charm of Hida Takayama
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| Photos by Itxaso Zuniga |
One morning in a ryokan guestroom in the Hida region of Gifu prefecture, I opened the windows and saw that powdery flakes of snow—the first signs of winter that year—had begun to fall upon the Miyagawa River, which stretches through the city of Hida Takayama. Inside, the ryokan staff, who just moments ago jolted me awake from my futon with a boisterous “Ohayo gozaimasu!” had prepared a perfect breakfast complete with bubbling hoba soy paste on crispy magnolia leaves, a local recipe. The charms of Takayama are always unexpected and low-key, and touring the area, from the enduring villages to a hidden temple, is best described as a treasure hunt.
Located just under four hours from Tokyo, the city of Takayama dates back to the Jomon period. Sheltered by the surrounding steep mountains, its geography gave rise to the distinctive culture still evident today. “Pretension” is a word unknown in this compact little town, best explored on foot so as to invite as many discoveries as possible. Keen travelers are well aware of the name Takayama, but most of them still pass by the city while on their way between Kyoto from Tokyo.
The best time to visit is during the spring and fall seasons, when the Takayama Festival, considered to be one of the most beautiful in Japan, enlivens the area with ornate floats crafted by local artisans. But because Takayama is dotted with myriad museums and temples, there’s enough to see even during the off-seasons. In fact, it was by way of getting somewhat lost that I stumbled upon the precincts of Hida Kokubunji, where a three-tiered pagoda vied for my attention alongside the incandescent yellow leaves of the 1,200-year-old Ginkgo tree.
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I eventually became focused on the Yoshijima Heritage House, a stately sake brewery of overlapping cypress beams and posts with a cool, earthen floor. A veteran tour guide who had resided in Takayama all his life—save for the years during World War II—explained in loving detail about the ripples in the handmade glass windows and about the time a TV drama was shot there. After complimentary green tea and rice crackers, he suggested I go see the old private houses, just in time for the enchanting moments before nightfall, when the lampposts along the narrow streets gradually illuminate.
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Situated on the east side of the Miyagawa River, Sanmachi is the village where the houses are arrayed in rows, offering glimpses into what life must have been like during the Edo period. The old homes, some of them sake breweries and others merchant houses and souvenir shops, are a photographer’s dream with their dark wood eaves and latticed bay windows flooded with orange light. Just a couple of blocks away is one of the locations of the Hida-style farmer’s market—an asa-ichi (morning market) that got its start in the Edo period. The people of Takayama proudly showcase their vegetables, flowers, spices, freshly baked rice crackers, souvenirs and even bottles of hot milk at the market, but the laidback vendors are impressively well-behaved—eager to help, never pushy.
Unlike most rural cities with an allegiance to the ways of the past, Takayama knows how to let its hair down by night. The neighborhoods that bustled with activity will fall silent past dinner time, but venture through hidden pathways off the main road, and there are karaoke bars, “snacks” and tiny izakaya and pubs to be found. One night I settled on Doya, a tiny bar with no menu or signpost, just your average English-speaking bartender with a newsboy cap and penchant for blues and jazz. But just after a few rounds of locally brewed sake and chitchat, it was time to make my way along the narrow alleyways back towards the Miyagawa river and the ryokan, just in time for curfew.
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Hida Takayama can be accessed by train or bus, but to enjoy the spectacular landscapes, the train is recommended. The shinkansen to Nagoya takes approximately 1hr, 40min and costs ¥10,070. From Nagoya to Takayama is a 2hr train ride that costs ¥6,070. For a traditional lodging experience on the banks of the Miyagawa river, try Sumiyoshi Ryokan (www.sumiyoshi-ryokan.com). The charge is ¥10,000-¥15,000 per person, with breakfast and dinner included. Another option is the Takayama Green Hotel (www.takayama-gh.com), which has both Western- and Japanese-style rooms, as well as several hot-spring baths. When you get to Takayama station, check out the information counter located just out front, where English-speaking staff can give you maps in English, Chinese, Korean and Spanish, as well as recommendations on what to see and experience. The asa-ichi market has two sites: Jinyamae and Miyagawa. In the summertime, the hours are 6am-noon, wintertime, 7am-noon. For more information on the area in English,
see www.hida.jp/english. |
HIS Experience Japan is offering tourists and residents of Japan a chance to experience “real Japanese culture,” in addition to the usual tourist spots. The company has nearly a dozen programs that allow participants to learn directly from professionals. Activities include sushi-making, yuzen silk-dying, calligraphy, karate and ninja lessons, taiko drumming and lantern-making, among others. Guides who speak English, Chinese, Korean and Spanish are available, and reservations can be made online at www.j-experience.com. Further info is available in English by calling 03-5328-4030 or emailing info-en@j-experience.com.
From August 26 through September 13 (excluding September 7-9), Tokyo Dome Hotel is offering a late summer accommodation promotion, in which rooms will be discounted by up to 45 percent. During the period, the rate is ¥14,000 for a single room, ¥18,500 for a twin or double and ¥21,000 for a triple. Fifty rooms will be available per day. A variety of events are being held at Tokyo Dome City during this period, including the 78th Intercity Baseball Tournament (August 24-September 4) and the popular children’s program The Jukensentai Geki Ranger Show will be performing on stage at Sky Theater until September 2. For reservations, call 03-5805-2222 or visit www.tokyodome-hotels.co.jp. CB
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