The White Fox

A British chef brings flair to north Tokyo dining

Photos courtesy of The White Fox

It’s difficult to say this without sounding trite:
The White Fox is one of the best new restaurants in the city. But don’t take my word for it. Get thee to Oji.

Trevor Blyth is a classically trained, award-winning chef who has worked in some of the best kitchens in England and France. After 20 years of experience, he has decided that fire and flame are no longer necessary—and nor is a large workspace. From his very small and very well-organized kitchen, using only two chessboard-size ceramic cookers and a salamander broiler, Chef Blyth turns out impeccable, high-end cuisine combining Japanese and Western traditions and ingredients.

The White Fox is a wine bar of sorts. The evening menu features over 25 small dishes—tapas, otsumami and salads—each prepared on the spot. To complement each dish, you can choose from a select list of nihonshu, shochu and red, white, and sparkling wines.

Sitting at the sushi bar-like counter gives you the best view of Blyth in action. Everything is exactly where it needs to be. With precise economy of motion, he quickly prepares and assembles each dish, taking prepped ingredients from Tupperware containers neatly stacked on the overhead shelves or in the fridge. Like all good chefs, he is constantly cleaning, wiping and tidying up to be ready for the next order.

Then the dishes appear one by one, artfully presented in simple, understated white or black pottery: A light, flavorful tomato and mushroom tea served in a white porcelain cup (¥450). An intensely flavored oyster and burdock root soup, with herb croutons under a creamy foam (¥550). Skewers of pink prawns with a velvety garlic and herb reduction (¥550). A luscious combination of tuna sashimi, umeboshi, green apple, oba, and miyoga (¥850). Vanilla-roasted monkfish loin and liver, with mitsuba, potatoes, and yuzu confit (¥1,200). A roulade of foie gras with sauterne jelly and brioche toast (¥950). A heavenly assembly of duck prepared two ways, tataki and confit, on a bed of spinach and leeks, anointed with a truffle cream dressing (¥1,500). Pair these dishes with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (¥800), or a healthy pour of Maboroshi no Taki daiginjo sake (¥840), or a Pinot Noir Reservado from Chile (¥640).

The selection of five artisanal cheeses (¥1,800), each with its individual condiment, is not to be missed, especially the Oak Wensleydale with walnut confit. Blyth is equally creative with his desserts, such as the refreshing black rice pudding with fresh pineapple, ginger and lime juice (¥550), or the dark chocolate and walnut delice with spiced oranges (¥550).

To end the meal, courageous foodies will want to try the “kopi luwak” coffee from Indonesia (¥1,400). It is, as defined on the menu, the world’s rarest and most expensive coffee. This is because it’s made from civet cat dung. The Starbucks-deprived wild cats evidently eat coffee beans straight from the bush, digest the ripe fruit, then defecate in the jungle. Intrepid souls find and collect the pellets, extract the undigested coffee beans, and voila—the world’s rarest and most unusual coffee. Visions of civet cat tailpipes aside, it brews up into quite a mellow, well-balanced cup. M

2F Kouei Ekimae Bldg, 1-1-11 Kishimachi, Kita-ku. Tel: 03-6903-6696. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-5:30pm (lunch), 5:30-11:30pm (dinner), closed Sundays. Menu in English and Japanese. Smoking allowed. Nearest stn: Oji. www.thewhitefox.jp

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