Hale Kai
Seek out the spirit of “Aloha” in the backstreets of Nishi-Azabu

photo by koji nomura

The name Hale Kai combines the Hawaiian word for “home” and the Japanese word for “ocean.” That made sense when we found out that owner/chef Takanobu Miyajima used to work at Roy’s Tokyo, the popular Hawaiian and Pacific Rim place in Tokyo. So is the food American? Japanese? Hawaiian? All of the above­. A reflection of the culture of Hawaii, which is inhabited by descendants of immigrants from all over the world, it confidently combines both washoku (Japanese) and yoshoku (from abroad) ingredients.

“Taka” and his lovely wife Naoko, along with their staff of three, call this place a “Sashimi & Grill.” For us, nothing could be more basic to prepare than sashimi­—all you have to do is slice up the fish, right? But here, it comes with a sudachi twist, like a small dab of grated daikon and wasabi on top of the choice cuts of salmon (¥1,200). Even the noble Caesar salad is given a fusion touch, sprinkled with tiny jyako fish (¥900).

When cornered to name the pride and joy of his menu, Miyajima says it’s the charcoal skewered Asian pork with spicy miso butter sauce (1 stick, ¥380). And the pork chop (¥1,650) is one of the thickest and tastiest we have found in the city. For rice lovers, the lobster cheese risotto (¥1,000) that comes piping hot in an ishiyaki earthen bowl is a solid choice.

But the people’s choice could be the uni cream pasta (¥1,700) which deftly balances cream and sea urchin tastes. The ultimate test is whether we can cook up the same dish at home with our limited talent and equipment, and this one cannot be matched.

photo by koji nomura

The wine list has been put together for maximum cost performance. Most of the bottles are around ¥5,000 and from the Western United States or Australia. There’s also an extensive list of cocktails, sake and shochu. Unless you’re a big eater or drinker, the bill will be on the happy side of ¥7,000.

Miyajima, with his big smile and bleached hair, when asked to sum up his restaurant in one word, chooses “casual.” The open kitchen and unforced interaction between customers and staff make the meal all the more enjoyable.

The only thing likely to generate confusion regarding this fusion restaurant is the location. On a residential back street of Nishi-Azabu that runs alongside Aoyama cemetery, it’s the Tokyo definition of kakurega (hideaway), despite being across the street from a fluorescent Sunkus. But even if you show up a few minutes late for your reservation because you’ve lost your way, the staff won’t mind. After all, everyone inside is on Hawaiian casual time.

2-16-4 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3400-8012. Open Tue-Sat 6pm-2am, Sun & hols 6pm-12am, closed Mon. Menu in Japanese and English. Smoking unrestricted. Reservations advisable.

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