Franziskaner Kamiyacho

Party in (German) style at this inviting beer hall

Photo Courtesy of Franziskaner Kamiyacho

A recent night out in Kamiyacho allowed us to fulfill one of our long-time goals: visiting each of Tokyo’s three Franziskaner pubs. Our love affair with these German-style bars began a couple of years ago at the Ochanomizu branch, and was cemented during a visit to Nihonbashi. The franchise’s beer-hall atmosphere, stick-to-the-ribs food and, above all else, namesake brews have won us over completely. So, on a recent rainy weekday, we looked forward to visiting the last of the Franziskaner trio.

The Kamiyacho branch lies on the main Sakurada Dori thoroughfare, just steps from the station. Its location is perfect for the area’s office workers to enjoy a truly happy happy hour—or, in light of the 4:30am closing time, a place to party ‘til dawn. Like its sister pubs, Franziskaner Kamiyacho’s décor consists of framed vintage beer ads, wood furniture and cut-glass lamps that cast an inviting glow on cream-colored walls. We have to admit that we prefer the Ochanomizu bar’s multi-story layout, with its three distinct seating areas, cigar lounge and working fireplace. Here, the bar occupies a single room, and even though none of the guests will believe themselves to be in Germany, the space is airy and pleasant.

By now, we consider Franziskaner’s beer menu to be an old friend, with several styles of Spaten on tap and a bunch of bottled brews. Notably missing, though, is a wine list. Whereas other Franziskaner pubs loudly display their hard-to-find German wines, the Kamiyacho branch seems to hide its bottles in a cooler by the front door. Other German drinks include schnapps (¥980) and Jagermeister (¥780), and there’s also an eclectic mix of brandy-based cocktails (¥800).
We came for the beer, however, and did not leave disappointed. After our usual diet of watery Japanese brews served in thimble-sized mugs, Franziskaner’s giant glasses of rich amber lagers had us humming “Deutschland uber alles.” We started, as we always do, with the Spaten lager (¥680/¥960/¥1,820), a light, golden weissbier, and followed that up with a bottle of Franziskaner dunkel (¥920). In a previous review we lauded this beer for its “nutty flavor and gorgeous brown body,” and we see no need to revise our opinion. Next time, we’ll venture further afield and try one of the Flensburgers (¥997), Paulaners (¥1,800) or Adlers (¥1,800). Though not priced for everyday drinking, the beer list offers a nice break from the ordinary.

Franziskaner’s food menu is stuffed with pleasingly heavy Teutonic fare—cheeses, sausages (¥790-¥890) and main dishes like borscht (¥1,480). On the lighter side are salads and breads (including authentic soft pretzels, ¥420), which several of the OLs in attendance were enjoying. We settled on a variety of appetizers: a buttery German-style omelet with potatoes and cheese (¥890); marinated herring with warm carrots, potatoes and dill (¥990); and a sampler plate that included spicy pickles, marinated octopus and raw ham (¥1,500).

The only downside of our evening was that we can no longer look forward to visiting any new Franziskaner bars. But we have confidence in the old saying: love is even better the second time around.

5-11-12 Toranomon, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3436-6949. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-4:30am, Sat, Sun and hols 1-10:30pm.

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