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| Travel |
By Karryn Cartelle
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Cruising the Bay
Ha Long Bay offers a breath of calm away from Vietnam’s urban rush
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| Photo by Karryn Cartelle
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If you were to lay down a fine blue handkerchief and scatter a jumble of pebbles over it, you could begin to imagine how Ha Long Bay looks from above—a sprawl of nearly 2,000 islands jutting skyward in a haphazard mix of land and sea. It’s harder to picture the scene of hundreds of junks battling for space at Bai Chay port, our gateway to Ha Long Bay.
As each boat’s crew hang precariously over the edge of their vessels trying to nudge themselves into a space, hulls collide in every direction. Suitcases are thrown both on and off those junks that have secured a spot, while nervous passengers hold their breath with eyes fixed on their precious cargo. Eager to escape the chaos, we make our way through the crowd. It is here, at Ha Long, that the pressure of tourism is starting to show, with approximately 350 sightseeing boats fighting for space at the local ports on a daily basis.
Amid the hustle, our own junk awaited. A mixture of bamboo and wood, the vessel itself attempted to blend modern comforts with old world charm. Six simple air-conditioned cabins lined the boat, each consisting of two sturdy single beds and a private bathroom.
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Photo by Karryn Cartelle |
Our journey began with a seafood lunch before arriving at our first port of call, Bo Hon Island. Navigating a traffic jam rivalling that at Bai Chay, we managed to find a place at the dock. Bo Hon sits 25m above sea level, and is home to one of Ha Long’s grandest grottoes, Sung Sot (also known as “Surprise Grotto”). The deceivingly small entrance at the top of a winding path opens up into two expansive chambers of stalagmites and stalactites, spanning some 10,000m2.
We are marched through a 500m-long passage illuminated by spotlights, stopping along the way as guides point out rock formations. Back out in the light of day the junks awaited, basking in the warm afternoon sun. Their sails had opened up, displaying their full glory amid the anarchy at the docks below.
Our junk meandered through a small portion of this vast bay, which encompasses a total area of 1,553m2. The area in the middle, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is where most tours weave their way through. Here the islands are dense, with some boasting self-explanatory names like Sail Island and Dog Island, while others are harder to distinguish, like Ong Su Islet, which has been likened to a monk with hands united in Buddhist prayer. Just like cloud watching, spotting the diverse formations is all part of the fun.
Ha Long Bay was once an important route for traders between China, Japan and Thailand, but today it’s the tourists who break the calm waters here. Except for the floating villages, with fishermen plying their trade, civilization is left behind at the dock.
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| Photo by Karryn Cartelle |
We stopped for a late afternoon swim at Titov beach, which gave us the opportunity to wash away the city grit. Named after the Russian astronaut Vladimir Titov, the island is better-known for its crescent-shaped beach than the Russian hero who visited here. Some tours stop for a barbecue lunch, but our group ventured to the peak of the island to take in the Ha Long’s full charm. It’s from this vantage point that visitors can appreciate the legend behind the bay’s creation.
One popular myth is that Ha Long was formed when a mother dragon and her children descended here to help the Vietnamese people fight foreign invaders. When the dragons arrived, they cast pearls around the bay, each one emerging as an island that caused the invaders’ boats to crash. Afterwards, the dragon and her children decided to stay on in the bay—which, for many visitors, doesn’t seem like such a bad idea.
We settled in for the night at a secluded spot. After dinner, a lone boat drifted between each junk, and a woman bartered water and beer with passengers as her son slept in the bow. Whispers of conversation and laughter drifted over from the nearby junks as some passengers tried to fish, with limited success. With bellies full from dinner and minds slowed to Vietnam time, we bid farewell to the bay’s eerie calm and, just like the hawker’s son, drifted into sleep.
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China Airlines operates daily flights between Narita and Hanoi, via Taipei. Ha Long is a three-and-a-half hour bus trip from Hanoi. Spring and autumn may be the best time to visit, but junks operate daily year-round, with the crowds peaking during summer. Two well-known tour companies are Huong Hai Junks (www.halongdiscovery.com, +84-033-846-263), which has 24 vessels with prices starting at US$95 for an overnight stay, and the luxurious Halong Ginger (www.cruisehalong.com), with prices starting at US$373 for a room for two. Each tour offers additional activities, such as kayaking, tai chi and even cooking lessons. |
HIS Experience Japan is offering tourists and residents of Japan a chance to experience “real Japanese culture,” in addition to the usual tourist spots. The company has nearly a dozen programs that allow participants to learn directly from professionals. Activities include sushi-making, yuzen silk-dying, calligraphy, karate and ninja lessons, taiko drumming and lantern-making, among others. Guides who speak English, Chinese, Korean and Spanish are available, and reservations can be made online at www.j-experience.com. Further info is available in English by calling 03-5328-4030 or emailing info-en@j-experience.com.
From August 26 through September 13 (excluding September 7-9), Tokyo Dome Hotel is offering a late summer accommodation promotion, in which rooms will be discounted by up to 45 percent. During the period, the rate is ¥14,000 for a single room, ¥18,500 for a twin or double and ¥21,000 for a triple. Fifty rooms will be available per day. A variety of events are being held at Tokyo Dome City during this period, including the 78th Intercity Baseball Tournament (August 24-September 4) and the popular children’s program The Jukensentai Geki Ranger Show will be performing on stage at Sky Theater until September 2. For reservations, call 03-5805-2222 or visit www.tokyodome-hotels.co.jp. CB
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