Bistro 35 Steps

Find distinctive flavors at this underground izakaya in Shibuya

Photos by Tsutomu Fujita

Along a backstreet near the Tokyu Department store, there is a secret passageway that to the untrained eye looks utterly inconspicuous. But those in the know do not walk by unaware that those 35 steps lead to an underground den filled with the sound of laughter and the aromas of hearty Japanese cooking.

Arriving at Bistro 35 Steps, we felt as if we should utter a password or give a secret handshake to enter. Instead, the jovial staff greeted us with smiles and the illusion was dispelled. Bistro 35 Steps feels casual and intimate. The lighting is low, throwing certain areas of the maze-like room into shadow. Wooden tables surround a sunken, open kitchen and several secluded rooms branch off the main arena. One is comfortable enough for a large group, while another is a pokey corner under the stairs, fitting five at a squeeze.

Bistro 35 Steps is certainly a place for groups. Like at any izakaya, the food is designed to be shared. But here, each dish is beautifully presented, distinctive and delicious. On our last visit, we had tender pork cooked in a crispy tempura with ponzu sauce and a mountain of green onions (¥780) and negitoro (mashed, raw tuna) with avocado and spring onions on divine buttery garlic toast (¥880). The steamed pork gyoza (¥630) were flavorsome and the cheese tofu with honey and almonds (¥680) an all-around success, even with the tofu-haters among us. The tasty giant prawns (¥980) arrived smothered in a thick chilli mayonnaise and with a raw egg on the side, which we then mixed into the sauce. Finally, the delectable mackerel (¥880) with spicy karashi mustard was not to be missed. Like at the bistro’s sister restaurant, Shirube, it’s seared with a blowtorch at our table, then doused in lemon.

Interaction with the friendly staff is part of what makes Bistro 35 Steps such a pleasure to visit. The waiters and waitresses, each dressed in chef’s whites, will do their best to speak English and make recommendations if needed.

The other big appeal is value for money. A feast with a couple of drinks generally comes to less than ¥4,000 a head. The drinks menu consists mainly of beer and sake, but a palatable house white or red wine is also available. Drinks cost, on average, ¥400-¥500. And if you get a discount voucher on your first visit, it will knock ¥1,000-¥2,000 off the bill next time. If you’re lucky, a waiter will give you one of these precious vouchers as you leave. The unspoken agreement seems to be that you’ve passed the test. Congratulations, and welcome to the club.

B1 Shibuya City Hotel, 1-1 Shibuya. Tel: 03-3770-9835. Open daily 5:30-11:30pm. Menu in Japanese and English. Smoking unrestricted. Reservations recommended. Nearest stn: Shibuya.

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