Saizou

Step out of the neon glare and into an urban hideaway in Shinjuku

Photos courtesy of Saizou

Everything you need to know about Saizou is right there in the bar’s full name: Kakurega Dining Saizou. Kakurega means “hiding,” and that’s the perfect word to describe this chain izakaya that’s devoted to the privacy of its customers.

Saizou turns up the intimacy factor, first and foremost, by turning down the lights. The dimness of the interior is what strikes customers when the elevator doors open—that, and the row of private rooms that bulge like sci-fi pods. Stylish chochin lanterns and tight spotlights lend a soft yellow glow to each table. Privacy also comes via the layout, with each seating area recessed from the corridors or tucked into alcoves. The whole interior is connected by a floor lit from beneath and bordered by stained glass-like tiles.

Not surprisingly, our fellow customers during a recent visit were couples. At least, we think they were—the low lights and acute angles made it a bit tough to tell. But as in most izakaya, Saizou’s atmosphere had a healthy buzz, one that was helped along by the ultra-efficient staff scampering among the tables.

We started off with an order of Heartland beers (¥700) while looking over the extensive drinks list (which included helpful English descriptions). Shochu aficionados have lots of choice here, with rice, brown sugar, potato and mugi (barley) varieties (¥480-¥580); there are nine types of sake as well. Saizou also offers a slew of drinks made from fruit liqueur, as well as a page of milk-based cocktails, including kyoho grape and Godiva chocolate varieties (¥650). We followed up our beers with a fresh orange sour, which we made ourselves by squeezing fresh fruit (¥480).

When we saw the food menu, we were glad we had brought along a Japanese friend, because there was no English on it at all. We got the feeling, though, that even if we just randomly pointed at the list, we would have enjoyed whatever the servers brought. Saizou’s “yakitori-style” chicken and grilled vegetables (¥850) came on a large white plate divided into tiny squares, each of which held a morsel of meat or veggies—one even had miso paste. The atsu yaki tamago omelet (¥500) was, according to our egg-loving friend, a tad too sweet, but that fault was redeemed by the word “Saizou” branded into the top of its milky yellow folds. Nice touch.

Shinjuku is said to have the highest concentration of bars in Tokyo; it often seems like it has the highest concentration of people as well. We’re glad that when we feel like removing ourselves from the crowds, Saizou offers an escape hatch that’s easy on the eyes.

7F Rando Kaikan, 3-5-3 Shinjuku. Tel: 03-5368-1035. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sun 5pm-2am. Nearest stn: Shinjuku, east exit or Shinjuku-Sanchome, exit B3.

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