Who Cares?

Enjoy home cooking and international crowds at this new Yokohama restaurant

Photos courtesy of Who Cares?

It takes a certain amount of guts to open a restaurant called Who Cares? After all, the two most obvious responses to this question are “I do” and “Not me”—a .500 batting average even before customers walk through the door. But considering that the owner has already enjoyed success with a bar in the same neighborhood called Why Not? maybe the goofy name won’t be such a hindrance after all.

Located a stone’s throw from Chinatown and a few minutes’ walk from the stylish Motomachi shopping area, Who Cares? is a casual yet classy dining spot. Its menu ranges from Africa to North America to Asia, with Nigerian tomato stew (¥880) offered alongside lamb chops (¥1,030) and tandoori chicken wings (¥980).

Our first visit did not get off to a promising start when two piña coladas (¥900) arrived almost entirely without pineapple juice. We were then served a salad that we hadn’t ordered, and the staff forgot to tell us about the daily specials—which was a shame, because the pizza Genovese looked fantastic. We contented ourselves with seafood pizza instead, and that’s when our evening picked up: the thin, chewy crust was a wonderful platform for shrimp, ika and other toppings, including aromatic cheese (¥1,030).

Our meal got better and better as the dishes piled up. Jambalaya, though not as robust as you’d find in the French Quarter, was a very decent dish of rice topped with garlic chips, shrimp, sausage and red and yellow peppers (¥880). Hearty gumbo (¥880) was salty and garlicky, with lots of okra, shrimp, chicken, sausage and tako. The tomato stew was true comfort food, served with yellow rice and boasting a good amount of shredded beef. We had a hard time deciding between fried fish with plantain chips (¥1,030) and fish carpaccio with herbs and mustard oil (¥1,030), but for novelty’s sake, we chose the former. The banana-like plantains, a staple food in Africa, were a nice break from our normal starches, having the texture of potatoes and a fruity flavor. Their accompanying fish was among the best of its kind that we’ve eaten, with a dark brown batter encasing remarkably juicy white meat. Our desserts, too, were fantastic, especially gateau chocolat topped with dense pudding.

Who Cares? has an interior that’s dominated by a large projection screen, which during our visit was showing a colorful documentary about marine life. Simple dark-wood furniture and wall-mounted vases sit under colorful prints and shelves full of African statuettes. A semi-open kitchen looks out over the single room, which, though not large, offers an inviting backdrop for both couples and groups. The diverse clientele included Chinese and Japanese couples, Westerners and Africans, while several families were also in attendance. The whole scene is lorded over by ever-smiling Nigerian owner Sammy, who adds a personal touch to the proceedings.

With dozens of restaurants just across the Horikawa River in Chinatown and down the road in Motomachi, Who Cares? faces some stiff competition. But by offering top-notch food and a convivial atmosphere, it’s got the winning formula down pat. No question about it.

3-104-2 Ishikawacho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-662-9062. Open daily 6-11:30pm. Nearest stn: Ishikawacho (JR Keihin-Tohoku line), Motomachi exit.

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