Toy story

Summer vacation dragging on and on? Martin Webb tackles every parent's annual ennui and finds playthings that could earn you more peace and quiet than you bargained for.

Kiddy Land
With the highest profile of any toy store in the city, Kiddy Land is a Tokyo institution. Everything from Hello Kitty stamps and stationery in the basement to air guns and radio-controlled car on the fifth floor are sure to keep kids of all ages drooling with delight. On weekends, a crowd of strollers converges at the street-level stand dedicated to the hot character of the moment and devours promotional giveaways being doled out by cute girls in cute uniforms. Inside, toy lovers and tourists fill the six floors-claustrophobic customers should beware of the scrums at the Barbie Boutique and American Hero sections on the third floor during peak kiddie-shopping hours (after school and on weekends). But brave souls should find some comfort in the fact that Kiddy Land is also an authorized moneychanger and offers domestic and overseas shipping services.

Open 10am-6pm daily. 6-1-9 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3409-3431. Nearest stn: Meijijingumae, exit 4.

Hakuhinkan Toy Park
A nine-floor tower of toys in the heart of the city, Hakuhinkan Toy Park is a black hole that sucks up pocket money and generous grown-ups' hard-earned yen. The fun starts in the basement with the Club 67 boutique, where Licca-chan and Jenny doll enthusiasts can pick up the trendy Pregnant Licca-chan, which includes a card you send to the manufacturer in return for a baby and a key to deflate the doll's stomach. Also on the underground level are a Ticket Pia and Ticket Park, selling seats for the Japanese shows performed at the in-store theater on the top floor. Four other capacious floors are stacked high with toys, with the store's selection of video games and jigsaw puzzles on the third floor and Japanese dolls and teddy bears on the second floor being among the best in the capital. Before taking home your bundles of joy, refuel at the fifth- and sixth-floor tempura, Italian, sumiyaki, sushi or steak restaurants.

Open 11am-8pm daily. 8-8-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3571-8008. Nearest stn: Shinbashi, across from Ginza 9. www.hakuhinkan.co.jp/eng/info.htm

Toys "R" Us
There are few foreign residents of Tokyo unfamiliar with the format of the world's most famous toy store chain. Its irresistible formula of all imaginable playthings under one roof at hard-to-beat prices has established Toys "R" Us as a firm favorite of Joe Public on this side of the Pacific., too Recently the chain has been making a big push into the collectors' market, but it took striking exclusive deals with domestic toy manufacturers and importers and collaborating on special models to finally make the grade with toy nerds in Japan. With 42 stores in the Kanto region there's sure to be one these massive warehouses within easy access. The Isogo and Minato Mirai branches also contain Studio Alice photo studios where you can get all that sweetness and light dolled up (traditional Japanese costumes are available) and captured on celluloid.

For shop listings see www.toysrus.co.jp/truj/english/stores/index.html

Bookstore Fiona
Celebrating its 10th anniversary, this specialist bookstore in one of Tokyo's chicest shopping districts-Jiyugaoka-is a favorite among expat moms. Not always a children's shop, Fiona began life as a regular bookstore with a comprehensive kids' section. But thanks to the efforts of a diligent buyer, it now features a world-class assortment of English children's books in addition to a relaxing interior and impeccable service. Picture books, juvenile fiction, activity books, science books and kits, educational materials, CD-ROMs, audio cassettes and parenting manuals are all on the shelves here, in English, and come with expert advice for guardians at a literary loss.

Open 11am-8pm daily. 5-41-5 Okusawa, Setagaya-ku. Nearest stn: Jiyugaoka, towards Den-en-Chofu. Tel: 03-3721-8186. www.fiona.co.jp

Akachan Honpo
This Osaka-based retailer is Japan's number one specialist in baby goods, maternity wear and other preschool-related items. The biggest and most easily accessible outlet in Tokyo is the Gotanda-ten (which offers a free shuttle bus from Gotanda station), but with 19 stores in the Kanto region an Akachan Honpo is never too far from home. On weekends young mothers flock to this oasis for baby buggies, diapers, baby clothes and, of course, toys. It's all no-frills and no thrills, but low prices, broad selection and friendly staff are the selling points here. Don't be astonished when the cashier refuses to accept your credit card-standard practice here is to let them debit directly from your bank account using an ATM card. Those with a bun in the oven may want to pick up the mail-order catalog, a good way to save time and stress at the store by deciding what you want before you set off.

5F T.O.C. Bldg, 7-22-17 Nishi Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku. Nearest stn: Osaki-hirokoji, Ikegami line, or Gotanda, on Sakurada street. Tel: 03-3779-0365. Also Kinshicho, Itabashi, Odaiba. www.akachan.co.jp

Yuzawaya
If you're a progressive parent, and like to give your kids something constructive to do, making the trip to Kamata is a must. Yuzawaya doesn't fit into the standard category of a toy store; it's more a craft-supply complex with more than ten multistory outlets selling art, needlework, hobby supplies, stationery and knickknacks. Myriad displays of everything from paper, brushes, beads and fabric to noren panels and silk flowers-the list is never-ending-are sure to get your offspring's gray matter churning with activity. Adults are also sure to be spellbound and might even be inspired to take up collage, batik or watercolor-be warned! For ¥500, you can get a Yuzawaya members' card entitling you to discounts at any store in the complex. But be sure to bring cash, as credit cards are not accepted, and remember to pay for items on the floor on which they are displayed.

Open 10am-7pm daily. 8-23-5 Nishi-Kamata, Ota-ku. Tel: 3738-4141 or 3734-0010. Nearest stn: Kamata, south exit. JR Keihin Tohoku, Tokyu Meguro or Ikegami lines.

Disney
Perhaps the US's most successful and enduring cultural export, Disney has been driving the Japanese dizzy with delight for as long as anyone can remember. If you don't feel up to traipsing along with the hoi polloi to the theme parks in Chiba, don't despair. More convenient, inner-city stores abound. The sinister Shibuya flagship store, a black marble tower, is host to an endless swarm of teenage girls seeking to satisfy their craving for the kawaii. Consistently rated as Japan's best-loved character for over a decade, Winnie the Pooh (Puu-san) has his own "Just Pooh" corner on the first floor. Everyone has a soft spot for at least one character from the Disney pantheon-go on, admit it-and they're all here, including latest editions Sulley, Mike and Boo from Monsters Inc.

Open 11am-8pm daily. 20-15 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3461-3932. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Also Kita Senju stn, Odaiba Aqua City Mall, Ikebukuro Sunshine Alpa, Ikebukuro Seibu. www.disney.co.jp

Photo credit: Anatole Papafilippou

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