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LIFE IN JAPAN
Ngo My Tong

Ngo My TongOccupation:
Owner of Angkor Wat restaurants in Yoyogi and Shibuya.



"I came to Japan from a refugee camp in Thailand in 1981. I came from a country at war, ruled by a communist government. I applied for refugee status to the Japanese Foreign Ministry after registering at the UN High Commission for Refugees, and after one year I and my family were granted visas.

In Cambodia, before the communist revolution in 1975, I worked at trading companies, and as manager of a Japanese car outlet, so I had experience working with the Japanese before. When the Vietnamese came in 79, I fled the country with my family, all seven of us.

When I first came to Japan, I studied Japanese language, culture, and customs for three months. Then I was introduced to various employers and different kinds of work. At first I worked at a cardboard box maker for a year, but I wanted to do something else.

I thought to myself, there are no Cambodian restaurants in Japan, yet many Japanese had been to Cambodia before the war for tourism, diplomacy, or business, and had eaten Cambodian food.

I felt I could make a go of it, so I quit my job and opened my first restaurant.

When I opened my first restaurant in 1982, I was incredibly busy at first. I was the first refugee in Japan to open my own business, so newspapers and television gave me a lot of coverage, and many Japanese came out of curiosity. But none of my customers would say if they thought the food was delicious or not &endash; it' the Japanese way. Soon I started losing customers rapidly, and began to worry. So I started asking people what they thought of the food. Was it too sour, too spicy? Cambodian food contains many strong flavors which aren't suitable for Japanese tastes, so I had to modify the recipes. Then I began to regain customers in the second year.

I'm always here and my son is at the Shibuya restaurant watching over things. But when I first opened the restaurant my children were small and I had to do everything myself. These days I leave everything to them.

After the war we had to get all our ingredients from Thailand, as it was impossible to do business in Cambodia, but these days we can get things from Cambodia. However, I only get spices and seasonings, as the Japanese inspections for meat and vegetables are too strict.

These days I go home often, since the political situation has stabilized. But I don't have anything left in Cambodia. I've got a good business going here, and my kids have grown up here, so I'm not planning to return anytime soon. Maybe one day, when I retire, I'll go back."

Ngo spoke with Daniel Grunebaum

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